Iconi

No one in the Comoros is in much of a rush. The laidback island mentality is strong, and it’s having a positive effect on me too. I took it easy trying to navigate transport to some ruins at Iconi. A helpful man showed me where to catch the vehicles to Iconi, as I’d not been waiting in the most popular spot. Public transport here consists of beaten up old share taxis and the circular spot where they gathered for Iconi was a little reminiscent of those alighting stations for rides at a theme park.

Eventually I was dropped off in Iconi and the taxi driver said, ‘le système de taxi aux comores c’est compliqué’.

‘Oui’, I said.

Iconi ruins occupy an idyllic spot next to a huge coastal cliff. They were the palace of various sultans when Iconi was the ancient capital of Ngazidja (Grand Comore) several centuries ago. Nearby there is a humble monument recognising the victims of a massacre committed by one of Comoros’ deposed presidents during one of the many turbulent chapters in the country’s history. Iconi has therefore seen a lot. Today the ruins are completely calm and abandoned and are a pleasant place to spend an afternoon.