On top of the world

The rooftop of the Estrela Basilica. Not many people come here. I recorded the four o'clock bells which were mightily loud and startling even if you are expecting them. There are 112 steps up to the roof which is a lot when you have been climbing Lisbon's many hills all day and know you have more to come. 

We did very well today on the walking and climbing front and were very proud of ourselves, I ache from the effort but we treated ourselves to a bottle of wine and the vegan focaccia in the local wine bar (Vino Vero) when we got back to Graca. At the other end of the day I bought a coffee in our local hipster cafe and got chatting to the Brazilian woman working there. She had lived in the UK for four years including the time of the Brexit vote and we exchanged frustrations about the British attitude towards foreigners. 

We were going to go to Belem today but there was a train strike so it was just like being back home. The traffic was awful and the buses and trams crowded so walking along the sea front and exploring the city was the best alternative option. The sea front is fresh and pleasant and one of the cleanest areas we've come across so far.

We went to the Time Out Market which was boring and meaty although the building is impressive and there is a massive and colourful vegetable market next door. Had really nice light lunch in Fresh Greens (which has a branch in Barcelona and which we had visited last year when out there). 

Lisbon is not a clean city and has many run down areas but it is fascinating and colourful, and places that look dubious outside are often really nice inside. In fact the city is living proof of that axiom that you should not judge a book by its cover. People are really friendly and helpful and English is widely spoken, which is just as well as my attempts to say even the simplest things in Portuguese are met with blank stares and wry amusement. There are also lots of parks and small green spaces where you can rest when climbing steep hills on hot days.

We stopped for a beer at one point and the crazy barmaid was flirting outrageously with the customers in search of tips. I put a Euro in her tin and she high fived me and said I would be blessed with twelve children, but I said I already had three and that was quite enough thank you.

Excellent day again. And I think all the hill climbing is good for me, even if it doesn't feel like it at the time.