Helvellyn Range from western shores of Thirlmere

The last time I walked around the western shores of Thirlmere was in 1973 or 74 on route from Ambleside Youth Hostel to St John in the Vale Youth Hostel.

True to form it was pouring with rain and we were sweltering under heavy rucksacks wearing the impervious rainwear of the time. All over the place were dire warnings not to stray from the road in case we polluted Manchester’s water supply.

Ever since that day I’ve not given Thirlmere much credit or considered it as a place to walk. What a pleasant surprise it was to find what a difference the intervening years have made.

We started after a coffee at the Lodge in the Vale, very good with a tasty scone. The Lodge stands on the site of the old youth hostel. A bit different to the accommodation we had all those years ago.

The views of the Helvellyn range were spectacular dusted lightly with snow on the tops. Drifting squalls and bright sunshine alternated as we walked along the virtually traffic free road. Best of all, there were plenty of places to stop for the loo! We were surprised and delighted to see no end of frog spawn in the roadside ditches on both sides of the lake.

The eastern shore was no slouch either giving good views of the central fells and, towards the end, Skiddaw and Blencathra both wearing a snowy cloak draped over their higher shoulders. The low low evening sun lit up St John’s bringing a fine climax to the end of the day.

Mind you, we could have done without the last 2 and half miles which were more challenging than the other 9 put together. Over a rough, wet, stony and undulating path after miles of tarmac and forest roads.