The Three Cruise Liners in Kirkwall

If there is a steamie in Kirkwall, then it was all the talk this morning. Early on three large ships had cruised in, planning has been going on for some time - an unprecedented visit apparently. Roads were closed and bus routes changed, as there were so many pedestrians around the town. The place was teeming.

To give you a feel of it here is the Ruby Princess with 3,214 passengers. To the left of this at Hatston Pier were the Magnifica with 2,569 and the Nautica with a mere 652. And then think of the crew who wanted to come ashore too. I'll leave you to do the Maths.

We decided to escape and headed east to Mull Head. We now have new words in our vocabulary - Gloup (a deep hole linked to the sea) and Geo (a narrow inlet or chasm). A lovely walk along the cliffs past The Gloup - impressive - to the Brough of Deerness with its ancient chapel. Many steps down to almost sea level, and then steep steps up with a chain to hold on to.

After this, we headed north to see the Convenanters' Monument. It looks like a giant chess piece, remembering more than 250 who had been taken prisoner at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge near Glasgow, and then drowned when they were shipwrecked just 300 yards from the spot. A harrowing story. Along this path we came across a little wooden shelter, inside were free range eggs, homemade shortbread and cakes. We bought a gingerbread loaf and left our money in the box provided. A lovely memory, delicious with Earl Grey after dinner this evening.

We've done well with birdspotting today : skylark, ringed plover, shag, razorbill, curlew, fulmar, lapwing and artic terns who thought we were too near their nest. Also watched several hares dashing across the fields.