second defile

Known variously as Myanmar’s Mother River, The River of Lost Footsteps, River of Spirits and of course The Road to Mandalay the Kachin legend is that the Great Spirit of the World sat on his seat in the Himalayas and poured water from two golden cups.
The Mai Kha river flowed from his right hand and the Mali Khai from his left hand and joined 43km south of Myikyina, capital of the Kachin State to become the Ayeyarwady.
The gold cups gave both rivers the gold that is dredged and panned along the length of the Ayeyarwady which passes through here three Defiles north of Mandalay.
A curious term for gorge and not only a geographic term for a narrow gorge between mountains or hills but a military one for a pass through which troops can travel single file.

A VERY early start causing much grumbling about a 5.30am breakfast! (with all the trimmings and eggs any which way) and then a very long day on the river travelling by ‘speed boat’ with slim, bony seats for well fleshed bums! and two very basic squat loos at the back of the boat.

Needless to say it was another magical day with a slow creep through through morning mist tooting loudly and then into the Second Defile where the river cuts through 90m limestone cliffs, hollowed out at the base into caves where fishing sampans bobbed.
High up on seemingly unreachable points, white painted pagodas sit the golden ‘umbrellas’ indicate they are in use, so someone is climbing those treacherous paths.
River bank villages of shacks and boats dredge gold,grow peanuts, harvest tiny pieces of teak and apparently trade with China, just 30miles away by very dusty road. A monastery squats high in the cliff side and young novices wash their red robes leaving them on the jagged rocks to dry as they swim.

This is Parrot Beak Rock, a painted limestone protrusion which acts as river guide through the Second Defile....look for the red beak! When the water reaches the beak the river is impassable and during the monsoon season, this is for several months.

More muttering on return by the grumpy bums whingeing about better gorges and more comfortable travel....maybe so, but it wasn’t in Myanmar.