Kilmelford Church, south of Oban

Kilmelford Church is tiny, beautifully plain and perfectly proportioned. It was founded in 671, with the latest renovation in 1890, apart from the roof which is more recent. There can be few small churches in such good order. Amazingly we were allowed up the spiral stairs with their barley sugar balusters to the balcony, giving me this view and a good impression of its height.

Tea at the nearby Quaich tearoom with the added entertainment of a young woman trying to park in their quirky car park for all of 15 minutes. Relieved when she left without bumping our car. She must have been a visitor, not to know the church car park was a few yards away and completely empty.

This church is part of Scotlands Pilgrims Journeys, which “bring together the travels of Scotland’s Celtic Saints and Medieval traditions of pilgrimage with modern faith journeys.” The routes criss cross Scotland and you can get a pilgrim passport to be stamped at every venue you visit. Brill idea, and you don’t have to be conventionally 'religious' to enjoy the old traditions.