Snow Monkeys

This trip to see the Snow Monkeys has probably been the most problematic of our trip. Firstly, I was somewhat hesitant to go; would the whole thing be a commercial venture with animals exploited? Would there be so many people there it would be impossible to see them? Would there even be any monkeys there. Then there’s the description of the walk up to the actual site  - ‘steep track through the forest……difficult to manage in snowy/ icy weather …… crampons recommended….’ Would I even manage to get there? 

Then there’s was the hassle of getting to the area - where to stay, how to get to the monkey park etc. But discovering our Ryokan made things easy - they would take us to the entrance of the monkey park and show us where to collect the local bus back. So it was only the walk to worry about……

We wake up to our 7.00 alarm and have an outside shower despite the -6 temperature and the snow falling as it has done all night! The water is hot and the whole thing is quite magical. Then there’s breakfast which in terms of presentation and number of dishes is almost equal to last night’s banquet. One special item is soft boiled egg cooked in the onsen, but just a little too soft for me! 

Then off we go to Jigokudani Monkey Park,  driving along roads that would bring the UK to a standstill. At the park there’s a layer of deep powder snow, much of it trodden down by earlier visitors - though at 9.30 there aren’t that many of them.   We ascend a flight of steps - cleared of snow and ice - and start on the 1.5 km walk. There is a degree of ascent,  it it’s very gentle; it’s really an easy walk so we’ve no idea why so much fuss has been made about it. 

Mostly we’re walking in that wonderful silence that can only come from a snow covered landscape. There’s occasional chatter from groups we overtake, or who overtake us. Sometimes we stop to just gasp at the snowy sculptures on tree branches and vegetation. 

Then, as we get nearer the actual ‘park’ we begin to see monkeys in the shallow valley below, coming out of the trees and moving quickly towards their onsen area. Apparently they feed within the trees in the early morning then move out into the.valley. Covered in thick fur, they look like little bears rather than monkeys 

The entrance to the park proper is where we pay, and as we descend the steps many more monkeys come into view. We can see the hot pool where they bathe, several already enjoying the warmth. Many others are wandering along the snow fields, looking for the feed that has just been scattered for them. Clearly there’s more than just hot water that attracts these Japanese Macaques!

It’s definitely best to visit as early as possible - before day trippers arrive from Tokyo. Although there are a few dozen people there, they’re spread out and except for the actual hot pool area, taking photos is relatively easy. It’s snowing constantly, and around the hot pool, it’s easy to have steam either condensing on your lens or making focus difficult. 

But oh my goodness, this is joyful! We both find the scene totally enchanting and of course, it’s easy to watch the antics of monkeys for ages.  Some just sit languidly in the pool, relaxing, snowflakes gathering on their fur. Others seem to be inspecting their hands or feet - possibly checking the cleaning process in complete, or maybe exploring the wrinkled finger factor to see whether they’ve been in too long! As always, fights break out, accompanied by bared teeth, shrieking and splashing. 

A tiny baby sits on the rocks in the corner, unsure what to do. Mum arrives and they both move into the water. He quickly seems delighted by his new environment.  One or two seem to be drinking the water, delicately placing their lips to the surface and taking a few drops. 

Away from the onsen there’s still plenty of activity, monkeys digging in the snow for food. I’m assuming it’s something that’s been scattered by the park wardens - they feed them fruit and wheat to prevent bark damage in the forest and marauding troops raiding farming land.  The arms of some have clumps of snow matted to their  fur. One sits on a rock in the middle of the river looking totally dejected - maybe he’s been banished to the ‘naughty seat’! 

It’s tempting to just stay and watch and photograph,  but it it is decidedly chilly and I’ve already got a cough, so we call it a day and begin the walk back, slower and more considered now, taking time to really appreciate the scenery. Ironically, having made the return journey with no slips, I fall over en route to the bus stop - but no harm done! 

The bus stops just above our ryokan and while walking down one of the narrow lanes between the houses, we find the coffee shop our host has recommended.  We go in and order hot chocolate and toast, and both are wonderful. There’s something about a thick piece of toasted white bread slathered with butter ……but the Japanese seem to think a tiny square is enough! Still, the homemade apple jam almost makes up for it! 

Back in our room, we decide we’ll spend the afternoon relaxing - and using our private onsen. Onsen etiquette requires no swimsuits are worn, and though stomas are apparently accepted, obviously my catheter would make things more difficult and I’d feel very uncomfortable taking a public onsen. As it is, I’m not sure whether I’m ‘supposed’ to do this, but I just don’t want to miss the experience - and it’s so relaxing. I know I keep using the word ‘magical’ but with the snow still coming down it really is. 

Dinner is again fabulous - and tofu free! I have chicken tonight (I do eat this sometimes) cooked on our own individual grill. Then there’s a salmon dish again cooked on an individual burner. This is high quality cuisine - Kaiseki ryori - featuring the best of seasonal and local specialties. 

With no entertainment tonight, we make our way up to our third floor room and indulge in another onsen experience, snow falling from the black sky above. 

What a wonderful day! 

Of course, it’ll come as no surprise to know just how difficult I’ve found it to pick a main. In the end I’ve chosen my favourite  9 (yes 9 - I’ll have used up all my extras before I get home at this rate) and the main is almost a random choice. This  macaque is perched on the edge of their onsen, slightly shrouded both by the steam and the snow falling. I’m sure many of you will prefer some of the others!