Vigan

We arrive in Currimoa with a threatening sky and a very choppy tender crossing to the shore. This is our first tender ‘port’ and while there is a certain excitement about having to get into one of the lifeboats to get to shore, it does make the whole procedure more time consuming. 

As we’ve come to expect, we have an extravagant welcome from local musicians and dancers before we board our transport to take us to yet another UNESCO World Heritage site - the colonial town of Vigan. The UNESCO summary reads: 

‘Established in the 16th century, Vigan is the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia. Its architecture reflects the coming together of cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines, from China and from Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape that have no parallel anywhere in East and South-East Asia.’ 

I must admit, our expectations are set very high, and we have images the Spanish colonial towns of South America in our heads - places like Paraty in Brazil, and Cartagena in Colombia. 

Now Vigan is not quite like either of these. It certainly has its charms, but for the first time on this trip, I really see the impact even a small cruise shop can have on a small town. Most of the passengers have come here and the Main Street seems overwhelmed - and ours is not a large ship in cruising terms - less than 600. 

Having had our kalesa ride, we deviate from the main tourist are of renovated colonial houses and souvenir shops, and wander around the back streets which are almost completely deserted. Here the houses are clearly in urgent need of TLC, and whilst there is definite charm in their crumbling state of disrepair, we wonder what the plans are for restoring these houses to their former glory. 

Photo opportunities are plentiful; crumbling walls, rotten wood, buildings overtaken by vegetation. Then there is the irresistible charm of Philippine transport with so many variations on the ‘tricycle’ coming from scooters with sidecars, motorbikes with side carts, proper three wheelers - mostly cared for with love and pride, often painted in bright colours and inscribed with names or sayings. Drivers are almost exclusively male, but I spot a woman struggling to manoeuvre her heavy vehicle before getting on the bike and driving off. Then there’s the husband who sets up a plastic chair in the attached flat bed cart for his wife to sit ‘in comfort’. Health and Safety would have a field day! 

We have an eminently forgettable meal in a local garden centre before returning to the ship via a very bumpy tender ride. Clearly our captain knows bad weather is on the way, as just after we’re all aboard we bid a hasty retreat to our last stop in the beautiful Philippines.  

Edit: it has taken ages to upload this - even with reduced file sizes! Amazingly, eventually I’ve succeeded - but only through posting in stages; first the main - street scene in Vigan, then the journal, then each extra (the first scenes from Vigan’s crumbling heritage, the second scenes of transportation!)