Protectors of the Forest

It’s New Year’s Eve and we’re in Subic Bay. This was not the original destination it a change of itinerary due to renovation work on the planned port - announced some time ago so I can5 actually remember where this was! 

Now Subic Bay is a very strange place, having been a huge naval base until 1992. Initially it was a major ship-repair, supply, and rest and recreation facility of the Spanish Navy before becoming a US naval base. It’s now developing into a major Freeport but 

After another absolutely wonderful welcome e through music and dance, we are taken on a ‘Panoramic Tour’ which basically involves a drive along the not inconsiderable length of coastline, much of which is the old naval base - apparently once about the size of Singapore! Old military buildings and oil storage facilities are not the most picturesque views, but there are clearly plans afoot for Subic’s future. We pass bizarre collections of various heavy plant machinery as apparently Subic is now a major centre for the collection and auctioning of second hand equipment. Who knew such things existed?  In contrast, Subic has a very beautiful marina and impressive Sailing Club - it’s conveniently placed as a weekend getaway for Manila’s wealthy. 

OK - so we’re not impressed by the ‘coastal scenery’ (though beyond the old military installations there are beautiful beaches) but the main purpose today is to go on a hike through the Pamulaklakin forest. The whole area is covered by lush tropical vegetation - helped somewhat by the 1991 eruption of Mount Pinatubo which  made the entire region very fertile. This is an area inhabited by the Aetas., an indigenous people who live in scattered, isolated mountainous parts in the Philippines. Thought to be among the earliest inhabitants of the Philippines, they are of small stature with a light frame, dark brown skin, tightly curled hair, a small nose and deep brown eyes - and it is these people we are visiting today. 

There’s a welcome dance to start - perhaps a little manufactured, particularly as we see the boys in loin cloths brandishing bows and arrows sitting playing on their phones later! Such is the stuff of tourism! 

It’s very reminiscent of our visit to tribal inhabitants in Borneo some 18 years ago, and we watch them ‘making fire’ - with some difficulty - then cooking a meal over fire using bamboo as cooking containers. We have the opportunity to try the chicken, pork and rice produced - delicious according to G, though I just eat the rice. 

Then it’s a track through the forest viewing medicinal plants, water-proving vines etc - and I manage to spot some interesting fungi which our diminutive guide tells me is ‘not good to eat’! There are many really beautiful butterflies around but frustratingly they refuse to land anywhere! 

The forest environment is wonderfully peaceful, sunlight filtering through the canopy and occasional coils of smoke catching the rays. The Aetas seem to be excellent caretakers. We know what we are seeing today is far from the reality of their daily lives - the tribal clothing will soon be discarded until the next visitors arrive. It’s hard to know whether we are exploiting these lovely people, or helping them preserve their heritage. They are making a living by offering bush survival skills, overnight forest camping etc - and were used by the Americans to train in jungle survival skills. 

Having returned to the Aetas’ village, it’s time to say our goodbyes - and the Chief appears to formally send us on our way, showing G how to hold a spear as they pose together! 

Subic Bay won’t rank as my favourite Philippine destination, but we will have fond memories of our few hours with these gentle people. 


Uploading is really difficult at the moment - even reducing the size of images. I’m posting this with the portrait of one of the older women in the tribe. I just love the warmth of her direct smile. Once again, I’ll try to add in some extras! 

Edit - extra 1 is a collage of the village children; extra 2 is G with the village ‘chief’.