Maureen6002

By maureen6002

Manila

Yesterday it felt as if we were in a rural backwater; today it’s the capital Manila. Instead of ramshackle wooden houses on stilts, we have a cityscape of closely packed high rise buildings;  with 42,857 people per square kilometer, Manila is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. In fact, the Philippines has 13 of the 50 most densely populated cities in the world. Added to this is the fact that it is raining heavily as we arrive - this couldn’t be more different from the sunlit beauty of Coron.

Still, we have rain ponchos and umbrellas and head into Old Manila by which time, the weather is thankfully improving and we even have some sunshine. Our destination is actually quite close to the cruise terminal - inside the walled city or Intramuros. Only 0.67 sq km in area, this is a centuries old municipal area entirely surrounded by fortifications and dating back to Spanish colonisation in 1571.  However, fierce fighting between America and Japan in the Battle for Manila in 1945 left little of the original buildings standing, so - like many areas of Europe - they have been rebuilt as accurately as possible.  

We head into the cathedral - rebuilt several times due to earthquakes as well as conflict. It’s beautifully decorated and lit for Christmas - of course The Philippines is a passionately Catholic country. From here it’s onto San Augustine Church - the oldest stone building in the Philippines.  Most of our time is spent in the attached museum which has a wealth of information about the history of the country as well as ecclesiastical matter. This is a part of the world I’m ashamed to say we’ve known little about - but for the notoriety of President Marcos and, of course, Imelda’s shoe collection! And so we discover for example what should have been obvious - that trade between Mexico -  and Spanish occupied areas of South America - and The Philippines was an important and influential feature. 

Spanish colonialism lasted. From 1521 to 1898 when the  Americans took over until 1946 ( with Japanese occupation from 1941-44). The main evidence of their time here seemed to be the removal of ivory hands from many of the religious statues both in the museum and in the churches as the strangely mutilated figures demonstrated. 

It’s then onto a refreshment break with an ice cream stop in Plaza San Luis - G going for the traditional cheese flavour which actually doesn’t taste too strange but for the disconcerting presence of grated cheese! This delightful square has another museum - Casa Manila. This three-floor  beautifully furnished colonial mansion depicts life during the Spanish occupation. 

We’re travelling between locations by kalesa - the traditional two wheeled horse drawn carriage. Like everything else here, these are brightly coloured and are actually surprisingly comfortable - though getting in and out is a little challenging. 

Next stop is a sugar cane distillery - obviously the main product is rum, but they have now extended their range to include corn whisky and also gin. We have a quick tasting session but nothing really inspires! 

Finally, it’s on to Fort Santiago - the most important part of the defence for the walled city. There are many flower garlands in place on the walls and we learn it is the anniversary of the public execution of Jose Rizal on December 30th 1896. The diminutive Rizal is considered the Philippines national hero who promoted independence from Spanish rule. His execution so enraged the population that occupation only lasted a further two years. 

Throughout our tour there have been references to the Japanese and the atrocities committed during WW2 - though our guide is quick to emphasise that people of the Philippines are forgiving even though they don’t forget. In the final days of the war and the Massacre of Manila, desperate Japanese forces killed 100,000 inhabitants in the most brutal ways. G chooses to make the journey through the dungeon tunnels of the fort, but I decline. When we meet up again he tells me our guide was taking some Philippino visitors through there when an elderly lady just started wailing. Apparently she had been here in the last days of the war with her parents who had laid on top of her, covering her from the Japonese bayonets - bullets we’re too precious to be wasted on civilians. She had never spoken of it so her accompanying sons had no knowledge of this horror. Outside, a plain white cross marks the spot where 600 decomposing bodies of victims were buried after the surrender. 

This is our final destination, so we make our way back to the ship. Old Manila has been such a wonderful surprise - such an interesting place even though some parts of its history are horrific. Small wonder that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

We wonder whether we should venture into the centre of ‘new’ Manila, but we’re being very cautious in just how much we undertake each day and decide we’ve seen the most significant and interesting area. We have no interest in Shopping Malls which seem to be the main feature of these towns and cities, so we stay on board then watch the city come alight as we sail out in early evening. 

It’s a nighttime shot of the city that is my main, and I’d been hoping for some extra collages of shots around Intramuros. However, the internet is being very uncooperative - something to do with China apparently! I’ll keep trying! 

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