Ominous

We were up at 4.30am to continue the hippo survey along the Rovuma River. The weather was ominously cloudy but we embarked anyway, only later cutting our exercise short because of looming rain clouds.

We were continuing an activity started last week to assess the numbers of hippos and crocodiles along the Rovuma River, the northern boundary of Niassa Reserve and also the international border with Tanzania. We don’t feel very buoyed by the findings, which indicate a drop in the health of the river and much more human activity especially in the form of livestock and farms popping up everywhere. These have a deterrent effect on wildlife even if there is no direct persecution. As always, we need solutions that can sustainably meet the needs of all.

Some ominous rain and grey cloud was brewing in the near distance and the pilot was getting anxious. We cut the count short and returned to camp, and it served as a good reminder that the unpredictability of being in the field mean that work often has to be done in stages.

I snaffled a quick breakfast and then started the long drive to Lichinga, the Niassa provincial capital. After around ten hours, we made it.