Day 18 - Rundale Palace, Latvia

Last night was summer solstice and it never got dark. A car turning and blasting its horn woke us at 6.30. So we got going. Just before leaving I noticed some beer cans had been strewn over the grass nearby so they were put in a bin which was conveniently placed by a lookout tower. We don’t often find rubbish - when we do it seems to be from cars which park up to play music.

Matt cartoons in the Torygraph have been good this week. Today’s was a chap on someone’s doorstep saying “I’m your Tory candidate. I bet you a tenner you won’t vote for me”. (Non UK followers may not know some Tory candidates close to Sunak placed bets on the date of the election before it was publicly announced).

It’s a day with sun and high cloud. Before long we were in Latvia and found our way with no difficulty to Rundale Palace. It’s magnificent and according to P4N we can stay in the little car park round the side. We have a view of the west wing of the palace.

After we had a sandwich we headed round to the palace entrance. It was €34 for us both, the most we have paid for a museum so far. Anyway, it was totally worth it. The Hermitage in St Petersburg is the only place I’ve seen more magnificent- it certainly beat the tarnished mirrors of Versailles for over-the-top grandeur. (In fact the architect of the Winter Palace Rastelli designed it first). The Duke of Northumberland would be very envious, though maybe not the Marquis of Bute with Stuart House. I’ve not been to Blenheim Palace but I imagine it’s on the same scale of ostentatious splendour.
The exterior was magnificently imposing, with a central part and two wings, beautifully restored in yellow and white.

It was built around 1738 for Biron, Duke of Courland and subsequently used by the tsarist governors before the new regime took it over in 1920 and began restoring the war damage. It has been under reconstruction since 1972, with staircases, galleries, rooms and halls being well-decorated. The ceiling paintings are by Martini and Zucchini and the elaborate mouldings are by Graff of Berlin. His oval Porcelain Study was striking. There were so many Dutch, Flemish and Spanish paintings from 17th and 18th centuries. It also showcased antique furniture. The white ballroom was most splendid with intricate stucco work including a delicate heron’s nest on the ceiling. (See blip)

Our ticket also included the enormous formal garden which was delightful as all the roses were at their best. If anyone is considering a visit to the Baltic countries I’d recommend coming. It’s not that far from Riga and was on the Chinese bus tour route.

I’ve made a veggie chilli which is a bit daft as it’s hot and sunny but I had stuff to use up.

161 miles today.