La Fiesta de las Cruces

Not my best photo, but I chose it because it is representative of the fact that this apparently religious festival is more about the fiesta than the cross. It claims to be based on the discovery of fragments of the true cross, but it seems likely to have at least some pagan element of celebrating the arrival of spring.

The basic idea is to erect a cross decorated with flowers in the street, or in a courtyard. They are then surrounded with many household items -- vases, copper plates, tools, fruit, food items ... the most puzzling is one that is common to all of them -- an apple with a pair of scissors stuck into it (extra 1). This is the pero -- a play on words, as pero is the local name for a variety of apple, and also means but in Spanish. The significance is that you can admire the decor and say how beautiful it is, but you cannot then continue with pero and some implied or open criticism.

In Almuñecar almost all the crosses are constructed by the associations that participate in the Easter processions. And all of them come with a bar attached. Some are normal bars that operate all year, but others only open once a year for this event and are in houses and courtyards. As you can see, most of the population of Almuñecar was out for this first evening (the fiesta runs all weekend), and it must be a good way for the associations to fill the coffers for the processions next year.

Guiri and F invited me out, along with friends H and L. We started with drinks and raciones in the Backstop and then headed to the patio where the Gitanos association had set up a bar. They had singers of course, so we stayed for a very cheap beer while guiri and F threw a few half-remembered flamenco dance moves. Then we moved on to explore the old part of town, where unassuming doors opened onto labyrinths of rooms and patios packed with people eating and drinking. Then to a large square in the newer part of town that was filled with chairs, tables, bars, and crosses. And finally to the former bonsai garden which is now just a park (blip). Everywhere was buzzing.

A couple more extras showing the more elaborate displays -- some of them included everything but the kitchen sink. We also met a group of boys of ten or so carrying a miniature paso with a cross on it. They had all the moves and were eager to receive small coins, similar to  "a penny for the guy".

We eventually left at close to midnight, and the party was still going strong. It'll be busier at the weekend apparently.