It’s an early rise this morning as we come to one of the highlights of our trip; we’re sailing into Milford Sound. Bleary eyed, we watch from our balcony as the pilot boards the ship, then wrap up warmly to go up on deck .

It’s overcast, but thankfully dry, and perfectly calm - ideal conditions. We look in amazement at the jagged mountains facing us; dark and foreboding - inevitably thoughts go to notions of Tolkien’s Mordor. There is no evidence of any opening in the wall of rock - no wonder this remained undiscovered for so long. It’s as if our ship is making for a direct collision, but then we see it - the narrow half-concealed opening to the sound - incorrectly named it seems, as these are fjords left when massive glaciers melted. 

It’s unbelievably beautiful as we enter the sound, huge mountains towering on either side, some snow topped, all clothed in thick vegetation, draped with lines of mist and cloud. It really feels like a lost primeval world, untouched by humanity. Just then, the sun starts to break through, a narrow shaft of light piercing the grey and casting magical pools of gold on the near-black water. 

We make our way slowly up towards the fjord head, our wake scarcely disturbing the calmness.  We can even hear the strange melodies of unknown birds coming from the near vertiginous forests fed by the massive rainfalls of this wettest of areas. 

Two tiny boats sail past us - made miniature by the sheer size of this magnificent landscape - perfectly reflected in the water’s stillness. Everywhere we look, fine threads of waterfalls cascade delicately down over the rocks, and small flocks of white seabirds skim over water darkened by the tannins from their run-off.

Gradually, the clouds begin to part, sunlight painting patterns of vivid green across the forested surfaces, transforming the rocky formations into an almost tropical scene, before the scene’s completely changed by a blue sky which creates a completely different beauty - gentler, though if I’m honest, I love the brooding atmosphere far more. 

And so, in warm sunshine, after three hours watching from the deck, we sail back out into the open sea, watching as the opening to this magical world seems to close once more, keeping its beauty safe. Thankfully, we will return over land in about four weeks, to explore this amazing place in more detail. 

This would normal be one of those occasions when I would post several extras - it’s so hard to select a main with so many different views of this most stunning location. As it is I’m going with an early morning shot as the golden light just peeps through  - and I think I’ve managed to post one extra with the tiny boat at the head of the fjord. I’ve tried to post others, but it’s just impossible! If only I could access Flickr ……

Many thanks for all the Christmas and birthday wishes (the latter on behalf of G!)