Faroes.4

The word for today is undoubtedly "turf", and not in the context of "Turfing". It was "museum" day today, since I got up too late to take two coaches in order to see the famous waterfall into the sea - and with low cloud on the hills behind, it wouldn't be the best view! 

I went to the National Museum - indoor and outdoor - and it was very well done and interesting. The outdoor museum consisted of a "large" farmhouse with 1920's décor, and various outbuildings. It was very interesting to see how the construction varied according to use. Firstly, by going inside the outbuildings and looking closely outside (see extra), I think I understand how their turf roofs are constructed. I deduced that the use of birch bark on wooden laths achieved the necessary waterproofing, and eaves boards retain the turf, but I didn't work out how the turf is attached. Does it just grow into the rough side of the bark? I also guess that the turf soaks up the worst of a heavy downpour, and avoids the need for guttering. Indeed, my only disappointment in the museums was that there seemed to be no exhibit on how their traditional buildings were constructed. The building without turf was used to dry meat, where I guess that insulation and the odd drip isn't important. Another building used to dry peat had gaps in the stonework of the walls to allow draughts.

On my way back to my AirBnB, I passed the football stadium, where I spotted that tonight the Faroes women's team is playing Ukraine in a World Cup qualifier, so my evening's entertainment is sorted! Ironically, given the quality of grass that I've seen everywhere, and the expertise in handling turf in these islands, the pitch is artificial!

The match experience was unforgettable. No photos because my phone blocked trying to pay for a ticket, and then I didn't have the PIN for my Faroese SIM card when I restarted it. Thankfully the steward just let me in! With just a few hundred in the ground - mainly children - the atmosphere was still great. Behind one of the goals is "Skansin" (fort) where about 50 ultras with half a dozen drums led the chants of Før-oy-ar! And before long I was joining in. I was also close to the couple of dozen Ukraine supporters, chanting U-krai-i-na! After beer and a hot dog at half time, the sweetest moment came when a lad of about 10 seemed to ask me for my empty cup. I replied "I don't speak Faroese", and then he asked me in English! An unexpectedly emotional moment came after the game, when the Ukraine team came over to the stand and beckoned down their supporters for a moment and a photo together: it was hard not to cry. Oh, the result: Ukraine won 3-0 and, although I'd liked to have seen the reaction if the Faroes had scored, it didn't really matter.