Faroes.1

A long, hard day of two outings. I woke at 06:30, and thought "SIM card!". Google told me of a 24-hour shop on the edge of Torshávn, but that turned out to be a phone mast, not a petrol station! However,  such is the scale of Torshávn, that I had time to find breakfast and make the 07:45 ferry over to Nólsoy, the island overlooking Torshávn.

There I did the relatively dull moorland walk along the east side of the island to the lighthouse at a good pace. On my return I climbed to the island's  highest point (391m), taking me to the edge of some typically monstrous Faroese cliffs on the west side. They are treacherous: one moment you're following flat grass, and the next step would take you over a 100m drop. (See extras)

I killed time before the ferry back by touring the village and northern extent of the island, but that was relatively dull. The only excitement came when I found that a huge ram had caught one of his very curly horns over the wire of a fence. I tried to release him, but he took exception to me, and I decided that it was beyond my skills and strength! The nearby house was empty, but there were farmers on the track earlier, so I guess he'll be OK.

After taking the ferry back, I showered and rested, before heading out again on a two-hour hike from Torshávn over the hills to Kirkjubøur. There I found this scene that could have been a film set. There is the shell of St Magnus' 13C cathedral, St Olaf's mediaeval church and lots of old grass-roofed buildings. The cathedral is not on the scale of Notre Dame, but the idea that something of any size was built in stone on an inhospitable island 800 years ago is hard to comprehend. Those with faith must have pushed the message very hard!

My Garmin gave (an exaggerated?) 45km for the day, so I decided against the hike back, and took the (free) local bus to Torshávn. There I had a couple of good beers at the craft beer bar I'd found last night, and am now refuelling on a fair fish supper. For the Chimp, the chips are good, but the fish only average. Only a sample of size one, though.

Still no sun, despite the teasing bright sky out to sea this afternoon, but it's not rained and the wind's below gale force, which for here is a blessing!

Thanks for your kind words and concern for Mum. I learned today from A that she was transferred OK on Monday evening, and was very much better than on Sunday when A visited her today.