A window on the past

Today is our last day in Orkney, and it has a satisfying symmetry. We arrived sailing past The Old Man of Hoy a week last Sunday, and today we walk to it and watch the same ferry sailing past. That Sunday, we’d looked out on what seemed like crowds watching from the clifftop - and of course at the conquering hero climbers atop the stack itself, but today we are the only two there. We pass many walkers returning as we trudge along the track, but we’ve left our walk until later, ensuring the morning clouds have lifted. Whilst this famous stack is impressive from the sea, looking out to it from the vertigo-inducing cliff edge is just awe inspiring. The walk there and back in six miles - my limit at the moment, and I can only do this as I’m feeling so much better than last week. 

Hoy is beautiful, the drama of its landscape contrasting with the relative gentleness of other islands. It was never even in our planned itinerary, but  ended up with a spare day before our Shetland ferry - hence today’s day trip. A happy accident.

Whilst the elemental majesty of Hoy is obvious, once again I find I’m ignorant of its role in two world wars, and the area around the port at Lyness is littered with these remnants. It’s hard to imagine that back in 1940, this was the main UK shore base for servicing the home fleet with over 12,000 military and civilian personnel - incredible to think of this influx when today’s island population is only 647. There is a museum, which, like most, is currently closed, but just walking round the area you come across rusting military objects, decaying piers, derelict buildings - as if the base had been just abandoned and left to rot. 

We spend some time exploring the remains in the Rinnigill area, when suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, a figure approaches us through the fields. Elegantly slim, wrapped up in a cosy grey cardigan and hat, she waves exuberantly. I’m guessing she’s about 80, but could be older, and apparently does this whenever she sees a car stop. She is desperate to see people and talk to them. She’s delightful, and we talk to her about the island - which of course she knows well. Bohemian and eccentric, she is uncannily like my aunt who recently died just before her 107th birthday - even down to her request that we find her a ‘nice looking young man’. 

We leave to continue  our journey, but I so regret not photographing her that we return later, and sure enough, out she comes again. This time I ask and she is happy to oblige, though by now the hat and thick cardigan have gone. Her name is Betty, and I’m pleased I have a photograph to remind us of our meeting. 

So my main today is taken from inside one of the old military buildings (I did stay within the safety of the outer entry!) and in extras there’s a collage of remnants, Betty, and inevitably, The Old Man of Hoy with G on the headland to give a sense of scale! 

Tonight we sail to Shetland, and I’m hoping to post this before my iPad battery runs out ( currently sitting in the car - we sail at 23.45!) No hope of following journals tonight I fear! 


Thanks again for all your comments, hearts and stars!