Go straight for safety

A young person in a surf contest today out the front "goes straight" to avoid the lip of the wave, A good choice as it was not breaking well in either direction. The extras is a sequence that shows a young lady pulling into a barrel but it closes out and her board is broken. Like in yesterdays photo, she came in smiling. The surf today while large, was not as glassy and well formed as yesterday (even quite cool at 18C).