Salvador

I was up for a quiet coffee in tranquil convent environment before 8 am.
Neil was still asleep.
We went for breakfast around 9 am and then decided to relax around the rather antique circular pool in the middle of the cloister.
Reading and me trying to catch up a little bit with my photos…. The progress is slow :)
We felt quite exhausted still and were up for a quiet day.
Our only program point was to got to the famous African Brasilian Mass in Pelourinho and try to grab a coffee before in Cafelier opposite the Hotel.
Now we are quite happy to have a few days here which gives us the opportunity to relax instead of rushing around.

In the end we were quite late leaving the hotel. The cafe was full and we walked to Pelourinho square and saw people entering the church already at short after 5 pm. The mass was not to start until 6 pm.
I asked a man on the door and he told me that it starts at 6 pm and pointed up the square, where we heard loud music.
We walked up and saw that they had put an altar on the top of the square and next to it was live music. Almost a full orchestra and with conductor and some amazing singers.
We listened for a bit and then walked up the tiny streets again in the hope to find coffee.
Instead we found the famous drummers Oludum practising on the street and creating huge party!
We had fun listening and watching then walked the other way round, without finding coffee though but had ice cream instead.
Just before 6 pm we found a spot on the square and were curious what would happen.
We are both not very religious and have not been to church services for a very long time.

This mass was very different! A lot of music, processions from the church bringing religious icons up through the crowd.
It was amazing and a very powerful vibe. People were singing all the songs and dancing.
There was hugging, holding hands, touching shoulders with strangers. Seriously an experience!
At some point there was another procession where baskets of bread were carried from the church to the altar, again in a kind of dancing procession through the crowd. There was loads of bread taken up!
The service took over 2 hours and in the end the priest and his helpers went into the crowd to give the communion and both of us, Neil and I found ourselves being part of it.
Then the bread was shared between all the people and shared randomly between strangers.
There was a lot of bread!
After the bread was gone people started dancing and celebrating on the square.
What a vibe there was.

We stayed on a bit, then I really needed a drink and a seat.
We walked again around the squares and all restaurants and bars seemed full.
In the end we stopped at a caipirinha stall up the road and sat at the only table.
The owner lady made sure we were in the back as everyone warned us about pickpockets, something that is not part of Boipeba culture at all.
She was a real boss lady, and made sure that any beggar or whatever, was made to leave us in peace in probably not the politest way.
We were thankful for the seat, some rest and a couple of strong caipirinhas.

I chatted with Aldemir and we walked back to one of the squares and managed to find a table at Cuco - one of the recommended places to eat in Pelourinho.
We had another Caipirinha and some really nice food!
Neil had lamb and I had quail.

We went inside when it started to rain and finished our meal.
At the end we started the conversation with our neighbours. A couple from Bahia and Sao Paulo, here for holiday.
It was a very hand and feet conversation as my Portuguese still sucks! But it was fun.

We walked home late, got a bit harassed, but it was ok.
Neil is always a curiosity with his kilt and gives us a lot of attention. And we cannot really blend in here :)


Blipping the sunset over Pelourihno
Extra: 
The band
Pelourinho Square filling up