Vizcaya Bridge

Not just one for the engineering geeks, trust me. Vizcaya Bridge was the first transporter bridge in the world (built in 1893 I think, but I might be out on that), and carries a gondola, with pedestrian and motorised passengers, from Getxo on the east side, to Portugalete on the west. And it's brilliant. It's huge, the gondola strangely smooth, and the walkway (open since about 1999) along the top giving a stunning view of the surrounds.

Getxo began life as a little fishing community, but was taken over by the wealthy as their beach trip of choice, and so holiday home proliferated - none more so than along the prom, where weirdly designed architecture, meshing all sorts of styles and influences, line the couple of miles walking round to the old port. Information boards give you an idea of the amount of money and effort that went into these, and the scale (if not the aesthetic appeal sometimes) is impressive.

Lovely day walking in the sun, if a slightly disappointing few pintxos in a bar above the old port; but we headed back to Portugalete (if anything it was an excuse to ride in the gondola again) and sat out in the square eating a little more, and enjoying some cold refreshment.

The metro there and back was easy, quick, and clean, and really much of what is done here could or should be a blueprint for elsewhere (including how ridiculously clean they keep the streets).

Back in the old town in Bilbao we decide on some more pintxos, and relax outside Baster, a little bar on a corner, and watch the world go by. Heading back to the hotel it turns out there's a classic car rally leaving from the city that evening, so some time is spent wandering around the interesting metal (and there's an MG Maestro for crying out loud). I loved the guy in the traditional Basque beret getting a seat in a Triumph TR£ (in the extras), and the old boxy Seats (also in the extras).

After that, though, the highlight was finally having a Carolina pastry. It had been calling to me from a bakery that we passed every morning (and that morning had had breakfast in, but that was too early for this sweet treat). It's basically a tower of Italian meringue, decorated partly with chocolate, partly with sugared egg yolk, sitting in a pastry case, with almond paste in there. And it's a pure delight.

Last evening.... What else to do but indulge in some more pintxos and txakoli?