Lower East Side

Xi’an boasts a unique cuisine that combines Chinese and Middle Eastern flavors. Heavy in cumin, chili, Sichuan peppercorns, and other spices, local specialties range from famous hand-ripped "biang biang" noodles, seared in hot oil, to lamb “burgers” with a jalapeño kick.

The ancient radiators hiss into life early, but the heating goes off for the rest of the day. I sit working at the desk in my room as the temperature bleeds away. Someone’s car alarm has been triggered and the horn blasts cut through the background din of traffic, wind and trains on the bridge.

Mid-afternoon I go to Dudley’s for something to eat. It’s an unprepossessing looking diner, but comes recommended. I have coffee and cheeseburger, with a few leaves of lettuce on the side, and it comes to almost $20. New York is not a cheap date.

Later, I queue outside the Soho Rep for a last minute ticket to a sold out show. I’m handing the cash over for the last one when front of house say that there’s a second ticket available. The cashier gives me my money back and sells both tickets to a couple who are higher up the wait list.

On the way back to the flat I eat at Xi’an Famous Foods - a local Chinese fast food chain. Spinach dumplings and Chang’An spicy tofu.