Obscenery

There used to be the most beautiful little beach here, more small gravel than fine sand, but its setting was just stunning. Two forested arms reached out into the sea on either side with the trees as close to the waters edge as they dared grow. Behind the beach the valley floor was level with large trees but not a great deal of undergrowth. It was fenced off from the public because the land belonged to the Greek Electrical Supply Authority and high voltage cables took a short-cut across the valley on tall wooden poles.

When Tom Hanks and his crew chose this particular beach as a location for the filming of Mamma Mia, they buried the overhead cables and removed the fence. They also built a stage, a jetty and a rather sweet little beach bar. When they finished filming they put it all back exactly as it was, right down to the enormous driftwood tree trunk that had always been the only place to sit to dry yourself off before getting dressed again after a swim.

But after the film was released, this adorable little beach was etched into the memories of all who saw it. There were three locations on the island that people really wanted to see for themselves; that church, that bit of forest beside the azure waters, and Kastani beach. The church is fairly inaccessible and so is that bit of forest, but Kastani was a sitting duck. It has been leased by developers and the valley floor cleared to make way for bar and toilet facilities, a car park, a lawn and chiffon-draped cabanas. The driftwood tree trunk has been removed to make space for serried ranks of sun loungers. The public may not avail themselves of a lounger unless they purchase a drink from the bar. Loud music blares out across the whole and somebody is making a great deal of money.

Meanwhile, extraordinarily wealthy folk in super-yachts moor just beyond the beach. They would, a few years ago, have had a beautiful view of a mostly empty beach with endless forest behind. Now their view is of row upon row of oily pink bodies - it must resemble a barbecue. The folk on the yachts never set foot on the island, never spend any money here at all, do nothing whatsoever to boost the local economy. They just lurk there like jelly-fish. There were five of them but I couldn't quite get the fifth in the same shot. No matter, it was slightly smaller than the others.