Return to Martoli

What a journey, it started really well, we left camp at 07:15 as usual, crossed an amazing bridge and set off to climb a terminal moraine which was supposed to hold back a lake. Suddenly a shout from one of the porters, he had discovered a dried up "scat" - a snow leopard shit! This was duly collected in plastic bags to be DNA tested when we get back. As we crested the edge of the moraine the clouds came down and the landscape became moonlike. The lake had almost drained, leaving soft sand flats.

The next 12 km down the Gori Valley was very "dodgy": steep gullies to be negotiated with vertical drops towards the river below, and it was raining. I have never been on such a difficult trek which has not involved climbing or ropes. What a relief to get to camp, the others who we left behind were so welcoming. What a luxury also, to have a bowl of hot water to clean up in!