Tradition or selfish...

I popped over to Tilberthwaite quarries today. Whilst (obviously) man made they are a place of great beauty - and carved into the hill I also find them very tranquil.
Recently, via the BMC Area Committee, I found my self volunteered to look into the replacement of the frankly shocking fixed protection that exists on the climbing routes in the quarry. Now a simplistic explanation - the slate of these walls doesn't really form with natural weaknesses like cracks or pockets into which climbers can place protection - so the continental method of drilling and cementing bolts is used to protect the climbers.  Historically in the Lakes these bolts have been very few & very far in between - these are exceptionally difficult & very poorly protected routes - where frankly the consequences of falling are shocking, "badly injured" would be a good outcome!
Now many years ago this would have been accepted by most climbers - but as standards of protection have improved (along with the rise of training, social climbing & indoor walls) the willingness to accept this level of risk has reduced - to the point where many of the routes at Tilberthwaite haven't been climbed in years - such a shame for such a special place - a place where I think, developed correctly and considerately, many climbers could make those tentative steps from wall to rock. However it is difficult to explain to non climbers just how very very contentious that issue is - many would far rather see Tilberthwaite remain unused & unloved than to improve the bolts - the tired old "thin edge of the wedge" is rolled out each time its raised - horror stories are propagated and the debate doesn't happen.
And they wonder why the committee spends hours debating the decline of climbing in the Lake District whilst other areas flourish.

Still its a beautiful place - somewhere to sit & think deep thoughts - and possibly remember that 21 year old who thought he was invincible and could climb anything.