KEFFIYEH

Twenty years ago, almost to the day, C and I went for a short break to Jordan. At Gatwick the tour operators warned us that unexpectedly severe weather was forecast and they might not be able to fulfil the tour programme so offered an immediate cash refund to anyone who decided not to go. Only about two people accepted and the rest of us spent three magical days in an almost deserted Petra. We were extremely glad of the chaps who came out to sell us these keffiyehs, and they did excellent business. They really are incredibly warm and windproof. It was bitterly wintry weather and when we got to Amman (after a small collision in the coach in Karak because of black ice on the way) we heard that Petra was now under six foot of snow. We woke up next day to an ice storm which had brought Amman to a halt. Israel, Turkey and much of the eastern Mediterranean were also badly affected. The tour company reps told us all they would take no responsibility for any tourists who left the hotel. Everyone except the Brits took the advice, but we'd got wind of a bakery that was open, and since we all had thick coats and sensible boots about a dozen of us set off and found one of the most wonderful bakeries I've ever seen, and took lots of goodies back to share. It was only five days, but we found that a shared love of cake, and a willingness to risk all in order to get it, can be the basis of a lifelong friendship.