Edge of the world

On a map the Kai Islands appear like a swirling particle of dust on the empty outskirts of the Banda Sea. Approaching them by boat they are flat, formed from the rising up of coral sea beds, unlike the volcanic Banda Islands. Because of this these islands are sandy and poor in nutrients for growing food, but have the most gorgeous powder sand beaches I have ever seen. Situated just south of Papua New Guinea and North of Australia, the Kai Islands are remote and far removed in many ways from distant mainland Asia. Just thinking of all the small plane and boats it took to get here makes me feel tired. But make no mistake ? these islands are a paradise and worth all the difficulties to reach.

After my long journey and chaotic midnight arrival the previous night, waking up to the long ribbon of sand wrapping around this shallow bay is like emerging from a dream. Think of a crescent palm- fringed bay, long white tidal sand flats, dreamy aquamarine water, and a pleasant sea breeze accompanied by the sound of swooping curlews. This is what the bay at Ohuidertawun feels like. It is a place to wind down a few notches and let the enormity of the sea and skyscapes begin a conversation with you.