Going Like The Klapas
On the waterfront in Split, is a simple open air restaurant: benches, four tables and a stove. The clientele are all local. I assume the fish comes straight from the boats, some twenty feet away, and the Chef prepares them there and then. I think he was making fish soup or Bouillabaisse.
At the next table, there were four men singing - a tradition in Dalmatia since the sixties. It's called Klapa, which means "Group of People". Or something like that. Usually, Klapa consists of a couple of tenors, a baritone and a bass, though these fellows were a group of friends singing for themselves. They sang heartily, often in a key known only to them!
This is what Klapa sounds like.
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