Cioch Nose 125m Severe **** - Sgurr a' Chaorachain

Not a good day for the knees.

Don & Wendy were off for a wander today before returning home, John Robert & I were off to do the Cioch Nose while Mick & Kathy were going to do a harder variation in the Super Direct Start.

Parking at the top of the Bealach na Ba we had the luxury of being able to approach the climb downhill, at least that was how it had been sold to me, however initially we had to climb the 150m to the radio mast before a steep descent into Coirre a' Chaorachain. With one duff eye and a couple of duff knees it wasn't long before I was well tailed off.

Some birdwatchers at the radio mast had said they'd spotted Ring Ouzels so during my many rests I had a good look round, but although I could hear them I'm afraid I couldn't see them. Eventually I caught up with the rest of the party and John, Robert and I headed up scree and some airy tracks to the start of the route. After a little lunch, John lead up the first pitch just as Mick & Kathy arrived, seemingly the Super Direct Start was exceedingly wet, cold & windy so they headed past us round the corner for the Direct Start.

Pitch two was Robert's and pitch three John's by which time we heard Mick & Kathy behind us. They'd abandoned the Direct Start too as also being wet cold & windy so they were now following us up the normal route. John took the final pitch and we'd reached the top of the climb. The first three pitches were all graded 4a and provided lots of interest and were well lead by John & Robert the final pitch was more straight forward, but now being at the top of the climb didn't mean it was all over.

We had to negotiate a never ending series of ups and downs that had short sections of airy down climbing and then some moving together on ropes through steep ground that at least had the added benefit of stopping me getting lost. Finally the radio mast at the top was in sight and we all took a well earned bask in the sun (photo) even though the temperature was only 2 degrees. The final straw for the knees though was the 150m descent back to the bealach - they still ache at the thought of it.