City of Contrast

Yerevan is such an astonishing city - not what I expected at all and a real surprise, in so many ways.

It's a city of contrasts, with incredible history, from ancient Persia, to Orthodox Christianity, to revolutionary Communism, to emancipation. Then there are the millions they claim were killed by the Turks in the 1950s - a genocide we in the west know nothing of - followed by war with Azerbhijan, which led to no energy supply into the country for five years in the early 80s. And then, an earthquake in the 90s which killed thousands and destroyed cities.

Landlocked, with only two of its four borders open, it relies on Georgia and Iran for a route in. 50% of the cars you see are brand new Lexus or BMW - they love their 4x4s with blacked out windows - whilst the others are clapped-out Lada's with mismatched wheels, or Volga's left over from the Soviet era.

Communist statues were removed, and replaced with new to celebrate independence. And a new city emerged, with boulevards and fine buildings worthy of any European capital. But outside, the poverty remains, with run down housing, rusting factories and dead machinery abandoned at the roadside. But it's also clean, and with breathtaking scenery - with the awe-inspiring Mount Ararat dominating the skyline, despite it now being in Turkish territory (a subject of much heartbreak as any Armenian will tell you).

An incredible place to visit and explore - with the warmest hospitality I've ever encountered. I'm becoming expert at making toasts!