All Saints

Today is Toussaints in France - all saints day - when people from all over the country return to their patrimoine to be with their families and place flowers on the graves of their loved ones. The cemeteries are festooned with chrysanthemums, the flower of choice for placing on the tombs. They are sold on every street corner, in the supermarkets and in the street markets. This particular market is the huge Saturday morning market at Brive la Gaillarde, where we went this morning in search of fresh fish, which comes up overnight from the Mediterranean. We arrived to find it awash with chrysanthemums, a veritable sea of colour. We got a couple of dorades rose, which I will grill whole tonight and serve with boiled potatoes and crunchy sea-salt butter.