Elgin Cathedral.
The plan was to visit Elgin Cathedral, return to the B&B for lunch, then Mrs TD could finish some of her quilting while I went for a last cycle ride before we return home tomorrow. Everything went according to plan apart from the fact that we actually arrived back in time for the evening meal. It was the "buy one, get one half price" that caused the problem, the half price ticket being to visit Spynie House, the site of the original cathedral; since we are not a million miles from Aberdeen, it was too good an offer to refuse.
The cathedral was first used in 1224, but was rather unfortunate in suffering three arson attacks (in 1270, 1390 and 1402); it was obviously an unpopular establishment, unpopularity that is symbolised by the effigy of an early bishop that has had both its head and the lion at its feet stolen. In 1560, the Scottish parliament decreed that the catholic faith was illegal and that cathedrals would only be allowed to exist if they also served as protestant parish churches, Elgin did not pass the test and so the Privy Council had the lead stripped off the roof, to be shipped off to Holland, for sale to raise funds for the maintenance of the army. Unfortunately, no one told the Council that lead is heavy and so the ship sank due to the excessive weight.
Over the years, much of the fabric of the building either collapsed into decay or, if it escaped that fate, was disassembled for use elsewhere. What remains owes its preservation to the use of the grounds as a graveyard.
Spynie House was interesting, particularly because the warden was not terribly busy and so was pleased when we engaged him in a discussion about spiral staircases. Some months ago, we visited Newbattle Abbey and were informed by the guide that the spiral stairs there are the opposite way round to other examples (Oh no they’re not!) since the Kerr family, who built, it trained their soldiers to fight left handed and paid them double due to the added skill. Since then I’ve been discussing the subject with (boring the pants off) anyone who would listen to my ideas. The conversation ranged far and wide, covering many of the relics of the area though I don’t remember all the details, but we did spend a long time pouring over maps and plans.
In spite of the lack of cycling, it was an interesting day.
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