Diary of an Edinburgher

By LadyMarchmont

Mule ride!

What a fantastic day! We all managed to watch the sunrise from the hotel balcony, then had breakfast outside, with the best (warm, soft) pancakes so far, and yoghurt. Normally breakfasts are nothing to get excited about...

Then we drove over the High Atlas Mountains on a spectacular road, with frequent photo and coffee stops. The French built the road in the 40s.

After the mountains, the landscape changed to vast acres of fertile plains, with trees in blossom and wildflower meadows. This side (west) of the mountains gets plenty of rain.

We could see the highest peak, Toubkal, and drove up the narrow valley towards it. We passed Richard Branson's pad, set in the choicest spot, of course. Apparently it's only an hour from Marrakech, so it's a popular lunch destination for (well to do) city dwellers.

At the next village we stored our bags and mounted our mules. A handy step meant that no man had to kneel down for me, and in fact, my chap provided a very helpful shove to get me up. The saddle was comfy! And it had 'stirrups'. No mule backbone was jabbing into my tender parts! I really enjoyed the trip up the hill and would have been happy to pay double, nay, triple the £4 cost.

It was about 40 minutes winding up the mountain, on narrow tracks with sheer drops, and boulders and rocks making walking difficult. But riding, I could look around at the scenery! The fit folk silly folk walked up behind us! wishing they had chosen a mule. Past huge blossoming cherry trees, with irises planted amongst them.

We got to the small village of Armed, and our guest house is basic, but very sweet. It has the most amazing terrace looking right at the huge mountain Aquelzim - Toubkal is just out of sight. The accommodation is 'shared' - three of us in this room. There are only two showers and toilets, but there are sweet little touches - pointy-toed slippers at each bed, a traditional hooded robe to change into. This village caters entirely for tourists walking and climbing, so it's relatively well off, with everyone renting out rooms and mules and guiding.

We were welcomed with what has to be the best meal of the whole trip. Huge amounts of tasty food - bread, Berber omelette (much better than the last one) mixed salad, cooked brown lentils, a huge bowl of (plain) pasta and oranges and strawberries. For all the lovely spices available, I must admit, with some disappointment, that I've had tastier 'Moroccan' food at home than what we've had so far.

Some folk went off on a three hour hike up the mountains. Abdou took the rest of us for a 'stroll' around the village. As the village is built on the side of a cliff, there was no 'strolling' involved. Just long paths with huge boulders for steps. Up and down. People are very kind and help the old granny with the bung knees at the back of the line. It was really hard going.

Back to the gite for a wee big lie down to recover before dinner - bread, lentil soup, chicken tagine (with tasty veges). Early to bed for me!

Heading to the beach tomorrow!

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