Varanasi ravens

We were down in the ghats taking a pic of achtstein and einsteinchen when this woman came along, saw what I was doing and....as we had no language at all in common....when she stopped laughing, signed me that she would like me to take a photo of her with the ravens...and we both giggled. I think that her name may be Ko ca, but despite our best efforts it all remained a bit vague but such a beautiful moment, an unexpected delight....and this is my favourite of them, just as she is launching into another giggling fit...

Otherwise an odd and slow day as Vishnu towers calms down from the fervour of holi...almost...today an left, he'd got his dates wrong and it feels like he took much of the energy with him...I have an 0830 train in the morning, landing in hardware about 0300 next day...am quite excited about it, I've never been north of Delhi and someday soon may get my first glimpse of the Himalaya... but it needs to be a little calmer than Varanasi has been, which it will be I think. This place has been that rarest of things, a group of people in the right place, right mood, right time and it has been an utter joy and delight to have spent the last days here with them.

Of course bit helps that Varanasi is a spellbinding den of cartoon characters and images. Utterly enchanted by it I am, can't imagine not returning...and, of course that would mean Vishnu towers. The best, friendliest and daftest place I've ever stayed...today we got coloured bind s marked upon us by staff, and no touristy schtick, just included in their celebration...and they were as sad as us at the departing faces...ajay even bear hugged me teiing me...you funny, I like you. You should move to India, buy a house...cheaper here....

And otherwise gentle day...it's going to be odd leaving here, it's like a little bubble of gentle madness...a beautiful shithole Daniel called it...I know what he means but it's more than that also, and less. I think its one of the few places I've seen that, kind of, have a life out with time..Wien is another..you can get lost in these places, but it's a relief to know that there are such cities which can weave upon you enchantments and stop the world awhile...but always you have to leave, there's always the lure of the next place, that glimpse of why you travel, that romantic nonsense;-)

And so, my last moon in India this trip, next full moon brings movement towards Delhi and then Mumbai...four weeks seems like such a little time now...but it's now into new landscapes. The last days the heat here has jumped, the hills sound delicious....more anon