Artistically arranged Holy Cow products

Left Jaipur to tgo to Bharatpur by government bus. We were supposed to start at 11.30 and spot on time the driver leapt into his cab and ground us into first gear – he took the bowels out of the vehicle or so it seemed but we moved off with the officious conductor blowing his whistle and banging on the side of the bus and shouting AGRA AGRA in between breaths. It took nearly an hour to leave the Jaipur suburbs and passing a sign that said 'no bullock carts' we went through a toll and then into a long tunnel through the hills that surround Jaipur and historically made it so impregnable. We passed through many an 'accident prone zone' and the driver re-ground into first gear every time we slowed to a halt although the higher gears seemed ok. Flat agricultural land filled with wheat, mustard and daal followed for four hours with small towns and villages every so often. Whereas men decorate their lorries and tractors to suit themselves the women make sure they decorate what they can too. Dung patties were stacked in spirals, neatly arranged on concrete walls or put in beautiful little houses with thatched roofs and walls decorated with geometric or flower designs. Similar little houses were made for privees too.

Where lorries made pit stops tanks of water were available with large buckets and jugs for the drivers to wash themselves with before taking food. The sun was shining and it was warm but I didn't expect to see a rather portly naked man walking through a crowd in one town but hey, this is India! We passed a pick-up truck containing a horse that was leaning its head over the driver's cab and resting its chin on the windscreen and every so often there was a crumpled car, lorry or bus left on the verge – reminded me of the sheet covered corpses beside the autobahn that I saw on my first visit to Germany in 1961 where they were left for several hours in the hope it would make people slow down.

A rickshaw driver brought me to the gates of the Keoladeo national park where I hope to find some birds tomorrow - found a hotel where no one speaks English and is typically unfinished, with only the ground floor looking used and a marble staircase going up to the stars! - then went out to explore behind the scenes of the village along the outer wall of the park. Was rewarded with several birds and 5 Egyptian Vultures (relatives of Kevin, see December 1st 2013) but was beset by little boys wanting their photo taken and they disturbed the vultures and kites on a buffalo carcase. Found a Sikh pedal rickshaw man who took me off to find bananas and biscuits and a bottle of Old Monk Rum to have with my coke tonight. We went through endless dark streets as there was a political rally on the main road which was closed and filled with police but it was worth it for it is ages since I had a drink and it has been rather pleasant especially as the neighbouring hotel has a marriage party going on and there is loud music and endless fireworks/crackers noise...

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