Temples and Palaces

We set off in the cool of the early morning, along quiet roads flanked by paddies. As soon as irrigation was available through a network of little canals from the nearby dam to flood them the paddies were being planted with rice. The paddies nearer Varca without available water will have to wait till the rains in May or June to be cultivated.

Our first stop was the Palacio do Deao where we were shown around by the owner Mr Vasco da Gama (I kid you not). He and his wife have undertaken extensive renovations and are passionate about the importance of preserving old colonial buildings. Their house was originally built by the founder of Quepem the bustling town with magistrates courts, a land registry and general administration buildings nearby.

Jose Paulo a Portugese noble man and Dean to Archbishop Dom Frei de Santa Catarina arrived in Goa in 1779. He moved out of Old Goa and built the Palacio do Deao in 1787 when still a young man along with a hospital, church, market and so on that formed the basis of the town.

It was interesting to see the difference between the family houses with their faded grandeur of chandeliers and ballrooms we visited at nearby Chandor last year and which we will go back to when Tom and Mu get here. This Palacio was more utilitarian, a man's house for contemplation, a place to relax in surrounded by shady gardens.

Then it was on to the Shri Chandreshwar (Bhutnath) Temple set high on a hilltop with many steps to climb. Legend has it that there has been a temple here for 2,500 years ever since a meteor hit the site. The present temple dates from 17th century aparently and incorporates huge rocks that are used as a shrine. Shiva, Parvarti and their son Ganash are worshipped here. Shiva is the god with the blue face and Ganash the elephant. We bought flower offerings from the lady in the blip, rang a bell, inhaled much incense and heard chanting. Its a bit frustrating not really knowing what is going on and we drew a blank from Marcellino as he is a Christian, but it was fascinating all the same.

We picked up my top on the way back, its been made very nicely, slight adjustments were needed as it was a bit long and some darts were needed in the back to take up surplus material, those were quickly accomplished, good value for £2.50.

Back at base the swimming pool is murking up again which is a bit depressing and when I opened my laptop to sort out photos of today I disturbed a load of ants clearing up the gunk I have dropped in my keyboard over the years no doubt!

We are off out tonight to the Sun and Moon a restaurant way up the beach which several people have recommended.