Before midnight

NYE has changed since my first on the beach here in the early 70s - in Ipanema then there were hundreds, rather than millions of people, and many circles of devotees of Umbanda and other cults. Cachaça and trances, candles, offerings and boats and flowers cast into the sea. Last night, I only saw one small group with their circle of flowers - and thousands of gladioli washing in the very gentle surf. I guess the others have gone somewhere quieter.

Another huge difference, particularly once the fireworks started, was the forest of raised mobile phones.

Since our first Reveillon in Copacabana, the crowds have grown every year - supposedly around 3 million at the turn of the century, surely at least two last night. Apart from those who gravitate to the beach throughout the day, thousands more, mostly all in white, come from every direction as midnight approaches. Such a good-humoured crowd, it makes me happy every year that we've decided to face the confusion one more time, and in the company of good friends. A great renewal.