Travnik's Speciality

Got up before 5am, and travelled in the rain to Bosnia - along the most stunningly beautiful valley. The autumn colours of the deciduous forests and the river; handmade haystacks - but oh! such a sadness as we heard the history - SO much blood has soaked into this ground. I don't pretend to understand at all, and didn't know whether to post the beauty or a bombed out house, or the holes left by machine guns...

So many cemeteries everywhere you look - this is a Muslim one here in Travnik, where we are spending the night in a motel and where we had a massive lunch featuring the local speciality. All the time I was eating it, couldn't figure out what it was - turns out it was pig brain, covered in breadcrumbs.