The Road Warrior

Sugarloaf Lighthouse Keeper's House, Seal Rocks, New South Wales

Since I missed out on dinner last night, I decided to fork out for a full cooked breakfast before I left on my travels this morning. I even scoffed down a piece of fried bread, something I hadn't had for ages. A nice wee cup of Earl Grey and I was set up for the day.

First stop today was Seal Rocks and the Sugarloaf lighthouse. It was going to be another lovely day as I drove through the sun splattered roads up the Pacific Highway. Unlike the Great Ocean Road, it is an inland road and so to get to most places you have to turn off it. Fortunately, there are several tourist routes signposted to allow you get where you want to go. I also had the sat nav, which was a big help. The turn off from the main road took you along The Lakes Way, however, the dense wooded tracks that line the road prevented much more than a teasing glimmer of the lakes on the way to the lighthouse. Turning onto Seal Rocks Road the trees become even more dense and I found myself driving down a mottled patchwork of sun and shadow. It was such a beautiful sight. Being a narrow road I didn't want to stop in case someone else came along which meant that, like so many images from this holiday, it will just remain in my mind's eye.

Another sublime moment announced my arrival at Real Rocks. Just as it had done at Bridgewater, the effect of the sun shining on the waters here just took my breath away. As I rounded a bend in the road there was a break in the trees as they gave way to another gorgeous, golden stretch of sand and deep blue to aqua crystal clear water. Of course, I had to stop and take a wander along the shore before turning back and scrambling up and over the outcrop of rocks that marked the end of this first stretch of beach. The tide was coming in, so it was but a short visit. Didn't have enough time to sit stranded on the island forming from the rising water until the tide went out again.

Back in the car, it was just a short drive up to the lighthouse car park. The lighthouse is situated high on the headland. Unlike the other lighthouses I've visited, the approach to this one is up a steep hill. Arrival at the immaculate keeper's houses below greets the viewer with the most stunning views out over the Tasman Sea and down the wide, golden sand trimmed eastern coastline south and the short climb up to the lighthouse offers even more rewarding vistas. Once again, I lingered too long though, and desperate to avoid a repeat of last night's late arrival I decided to miss out the side trip to Port Macquarie which would have added a couple of hours travel time. Who knows what that would have translated to in real time!

Turning back onto and continuing along The Lakes Way, it became clear why it was named so, as I passed by Smiths Lake before reaching the massive Wallis Lake on the edge of Booti Booti National Park. In some places it was almost like I was back home driving along loch side stretches of the highlands. Driving along the narrow stretch of land between the lake to the west and The Tasman Sea to the east, I had my first negative driving experience as this female driver decided she'd drive right up my arse at 110kph. In a land where the wildlife can jump out at you at any time and where there are signs every kilometre or two to remind you of the fact, I'd have thought clear space between vehicles would have been second nature here. But I guess an asshole driver is an asshole driver the world over! This continued for a while and as we turned into Forster I decided enough was enough and indicated to turn left onto a side road. As I turned onto the slip road leading to the left turn, for some reason she decided to slow and took an absolute age to pass me. Sheesh, some people! Don't know what she thought as I pulled onto the road behind her. It was only then that I spotted the green P plate on her bumper. That only made things worse because she shouldn't have been travelling faster than 100kph. I was sorely tempted to take a note of her reg. Stupid cow! Crossing the old bridge at Heads Street, I wished I had taken the time to stop off at Forster. It was a lovely spot where the Wallamaba and Coolongolook rivers seeped out into the ocean. Ah well... if you're ever down that way, its well worth a stop. A very photogenic spot.

It seemed to be the day for mad drivers. Most of the highways I've driven on were single lane either side, but every so often an overtaking lane is provided on either side to pass slow moving vehicles. The start of these stretches are clearly marked and drivers are advised to stay left unless overtaking. You naturally drive into the left lane at the start of them and then merge into the right as they end. I really liked them and think they're a great idea. Saves on building two lane highways too I guess. Drivers generally stuck to the speed limits too. I discovered why today. As the train of traffic approached the latest overtaking lane, someone in a hurry decided to zoom by a few of us. Nice wee bit of acceleration and he was gone. Zoom, zoom. Forgotten. Just as the lane ended though a police car was zooming down in the opposite direction with lights flashing. I watched him in the rear view mirror as he did a u-turn at the wider part of the road and started back up the road. Now, as a result of all these overtaking lanes, everywhere else has double white lines meaning no overtaking. There are also many lengths of road where there is no hard shoulder. Just like this part. I watched carefully to see what the etiquette was for letting them pass. Driving your car off the side of the road seemed to be quite popular, so I followed suite and listened to the gurgling noise as the big motor under his bonnet began winding up as he started his pursuit in earnest. Eat yer heart out Mel Gibson! A few clicks down the road, Speedy Gonzalez had been pulled over. It was the first of a good 5 or 6 stopped vehicles I saw along the stretch of road on my way up to Coffs Harbour today.

When I was in Newcastle, I had seen a bush fire off in the distance while Jenny had been driving me around. As I drove up the road, I saw another on the horizon, and I seemed to be driving right towards it. Sure enough, the sight and smell of smoke grew stronger as I travelled north, and while I never saw anything more, I did have to drive through it. Later, as the night fell, over to the west, the horizon glowed from the flames of another. It was quite an eerie feeling as the orange tinged smoke rose into the darkness.

I arrived in Coffs Harbour just after 6pm. I was staying in a resort hotel out of town, the Opal Cove. Its own pool, games room, restaurant, mini golf and of course, beach! My room had a balcony with a gorgeous view... over the car park! Heh, I guess the good views are reserved for those who part with serious money. I decided I would just head down to the restaurant for dinner and enjoyed a lovely two course meal. Duck spring rolls with a sticky ginger and apple sauce to start, followed by a nice bit of steak with a red wine and mushroom sauce and prosciutto with chive mashed potato. Nice!

Then it was off to the laundry room. Again!!!

I've been getting a bit of grief from some quarters at home for too many mono shots. I had intended to put up a mono version of this too, but I have succumbed to peer pressure and reprocessed it in colour. Anything for a quiet life! ;-)