Kirkenes

I need not have worried about the RIB trip. It was an easy step down into it, and I got my leg over the saddle OK because there was a step. Phew! And the crab was despatched quickly by one swift stab through its brain. I had no trouble eating two legs, but didn't manage a claw as well, though JR did. We were supplied with large scissors - like small hedge clippers - which made the job easy. There is a LOT of meat in those legs. The crabs weighed about 4kg, but can weigh up to 12kgs. They're an invasive species in the Barents Sea, and eat anything and everything, and have no natural enemies, so there was need to feel bad about eating them.

We had a great trip, first of all we had to get dressed up in the proper gear - full-on quite heavy onesies! The two chaps who took us were excellent. While one chap dealt to the crabs (steamed with a wee bit of salt) the other chap chatted to us about life in Kirkenes. Then one would tidy up, and the other, younger, chap would chat to us. They love their life here, and don't want to live anywhere else, despite the three months of total darkness. And a vast temperature range, it can be -30° in winter, and +30° in the summer!!! 

Very interesting about relations with Russia. They have lost a lot of jobs in the town because of sanctions against Russia, but they want to support Ukraine.

When we arrived on the island, there was a solitary reindeer wandering long the shore line! The 'restaurant' was a shed, the tables were set up with starched white linen tablecloths and starched white linen napkins! Very special!

A lot of people left the ship, flying south, and a new lot got on. Quite a few stalwarts who are doing the whole trip. There are different stops and excursions on the way back down. And if you had bad weather in, say, the Lofoten Islands you've got another chance.

As we left Kirkenes, I spotted the seagulls nesting in the tyres on the warf. They would have been trapped for several hours while we berthed there! I didn’t see that trick in any other harbour.

This route would have been used by the Arctic Convoys in WW11, which delivered food and supplies to Russia (Murmansk). This was a very dangerous mission, as German submarines and warships attacked them along the whole (occupied) Norwegian coast. And in winter, the sea was iced over. JR's uncle was on one of the ships, and he was awarded medals by the Russians, with yearly ceremonies even when he was quite elderly. There is an excellent programme narrated by Jeremy Clarkson, and it's still on iPlayer.

Extra: I think it means ‘Bon Voyage’!