Gladsouthsider

By Gladsouthsider

Santa Cruz de la Serós to Arrés

A day of contrasts, weather and terrain. I had breakfast, the best yet with ham and tomatoes and individual jugs of coffee and hot milk, watching the rain fall. I left in waterproofs expecting to get very wet and abandoned my intention to exit Santa Cruz via the potentially tricky Camino/GR65.3. By the time time I had reached the access point to the off road route the rain had stopped and an elderly chap with a boisterous young dog turned to follow the GR65.3. Emboldened I followed them. The track was initially very easy and apart from a couple of rocky kilometres in the middle was straightforward. Very well way marked too with the both the red and white stripes of the GR and the yellow arrows of the Camino.
Thereafter it was a bit of a slog alongside the road, not busy, to St Cillia where everything was closed. I spotted a public swimming pool on the edge of the town and struck lucky with a lukewarm coffee at the snack bar. The road continued, somewhat monotonously to Puenta la Reine de Jaca where I managed to buy a chicken empanada, delicious, for a late 3pm lunch. Also some emergency lemon biscuits.
Off road for the last 5k or so and I met the first pilgrim of the day. A young woman from Toulouse who was carrying everything. She said her backpack weighed 31kgs. I cannot imagine, my day backpack felt heavy just with the extra lemon biscuits. My main bag is transported for me everyday which makes everything so much easier.
I arrived around 4 in Arres, which I blipped just before I entered the village. There are fewer than 75 inhabitants, a small municipal albergue for bona fide pilgrims and a private hostel for everyone else including me. Another interesting set up and no one speaks English or French. I successfully arranged to have dinner at 8 which I’ve just eaten. I couldn’t read the handwritten menu so made a serendipitous choice. I ended up with robust lentil soup, outstanding white fish, I think monkfish, a lush nectarine and a whole bottle of very quaffable local wine for €15in total. An unexpected delight, and useful calories. I also have a picnic breakfast for tomorrow which is not so great, apple sauce, three muffin type things and a carton of UHT milk. The lemon biscuits were a prescient purchase.
Extra blip is the view from my room.

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