Coming of Age

So finally our cruise - or technically two cruises - has come to an end. Tokyo greets us with brilliant winter sunshine and loud taiko drumming from a gallery of the cruise terminal. A wander up to the top deck reveals Mt Fuji standing proud behind Tokyo’s high rises - and she’s covered in snow. The sky is bright blue and cloudless - what a fantastic start. 

There’s the usual wait to disembark- and feelings both of excitement at the start of a new adventure and apprehension at suddenly being on our own again. 

Everyone we’ve spoken to about Japan comments on just how wonderful the people are - and how clean the place is - and our experiences going through immigration and customs are all excellent with friendly and respectful staff who’d put the greetings at UK borders to shame. Getting a taxi to our hotel is more problematic simply because there aren’t any, but once they return from dropping off the previous arrivals, we’re on our way. 

Tokyo gleams in the clear winter light - clean, crisp lines of architecturally interesting high rise buildings everywhere. The is a modern mega-city - huge, yet it seems approachable. Soon we’re passing embassies, and we’re at our hotel, The Okuro - sleek, stretching skywards, but with a pool reflecting the beautiful Okuro Art Museum opposite, only built in 1933, but with all the qualities of old Japanese buildings.

Most exciting for me is my first sight of the ‘Coming of Age Day’ celebrations. I learnt about this before leaving home - the second Monday in January is when those who’ve turned 20 within the last year (actually April to April) celebrate the arrival of adulthood. (Since changes to the voting rights, there’s some debate about whether this should be 18). The girls all wear full kimono outfits with hair and makeup to match; the boys dress in smart suits and ties. I’d hoped I might see one or two, but I’m not  prepared for the scene that greets us as we enter the hotel. The whole lobby is full of the most beautiful young women in absolutely gorgeous kimonos, proud parents busy taking photos. We find out later they are the alumni of a girl’s school here for a celebration lunch buffet, hence no boys. 

We check in - but this being morning, our room isn’t ready. No problem; we find the coffee shop and G sits there while I wander through the throngs taking photographs. I ask some pairs and groups who are delighted to pose for me. Then I wander through the crowd taking unposed closeups. I’m in my element. 

Then I’m approached by an American - obviously a father. He wonders whether I’d take some shots of his daughter Lana  which of course I agree to. Then it’s his daughter and her sister, then the whole family group, then Lana and her friendship group. I agree to email him the results and hope they’ll all be happy with them! (By now he’s received them and they’re all delighted) 

Eventually, I think I’ve probably captured every possible kimono, and luggage taken care of, we head off down the hill towards Zojo-ji, the main temple of the Jodi sect of Japanese Buddhism. Originally established in 1393, but has undergone several reconstructions and, like many buildings, was partly destroyed in WW2 

The temple is busy - this is a public holiday - and there are several Coming of Age celebrants here too. We hear the deep bass singing of a monk coming from one of the temple buildings - that strange rumbling sound I associate with Buddhist monks in Bhutan. We walk up to watch the service that is taking place, other monks involved in drumming at appropriate moments. 

Outside the temple is a large incense burner where worshipers seem to almost bathe in the heady smoke, moving around so that it can envelope almost every part of their body. 

Then there is what seems to be the main temple where people are queuing to ascend the steps and go inside. We join them and make slow progress, eventually realising that they are all taking part in a ritual to visit a sacred offertory chest where some sort of coin donation is made. We leave the queue and wander around the back of the hall where beautiful shafts of light are piercing through from the side. 

This is a temple associated with the Tokugawa shogun, and there are several tombs within the complex. There are also rows of small stone child-like figures lining the paths, most wearing little red crocheted hats and red aprons with windmills and flowers left as offerings. When I read the explanation for these strange creatures I feel very moved;  these are ‘care guardian deities of children, dedicated for the safe growth of children and grandchildren as well as a memorial for all still born or miscarried children’. The hats and aprons are dedicated to keep the guardian deities warm. 

We’ve booked to visit the Top Deck of the Tokyo Tower - just round the corner from the temple, so make our way there. Of course, it’s tourist central - mostly Japanese - and here again are ‘Coming of Age’ celebrants, enjoying the less formal aspects of their day. First it’s up to the main deck, which in fairness has pretty good views, then It’s on to the Top Deck via two separate high speed lifts. Of course, from up here, the views over Tokyo are stunning - especially in this weather. Fuji is still clear, the snow catching the sun, and we can see our ship at the cruise terminal- she will be sailing tonight with her next load of passengers. 

By now I have to admit I’m beaten.  There is no way I can walk back to the hotel, so we succumb to a taxi! Back at The Okuro, it’s up to floor 37 and the Executive Lounge where we have almost as good a view as we did from the tower! I love upscale city hotels, and this was a good deal on Luxury Escapes! We help ourselves to tea time snacks and drinks before being taken to our west facing room which has an even better view facing the Fuji and the mountains. 

We have no intention of straying far tonight, but enjoy the sunset before returning to the lounge for evening snacks and drinks - perfectly adequate for tonight’s dinner! Added to that, there’s the view of Tokyo at night - and the rather magnificent yellow and orange lighting of the Tokyo Tower. 

Our first day in Japan has certainly been memorable! 

https://blog.japanwondertravel.com/coming-of-age-day-in-japan-30415#toc4


My main’s a shot of Lana and her friends st their Coming of Age celebration, with extra 1 a collage of more casual shots around the room. Then there’s some shots around the Zojo-ji temple; the Tokyo Tower, and general views of Tokyo. Finally, There are the rows of ‘care guardian deities of children’ from the temple.