The Rum Cuillin traverse

I've probably thought about visiting the island of Rum for over thirty years but finally my opportunity arose. Seeking the Corbetts, I made a plan to get to the island this May for my birthday weekend. Mrs AB and AB#2 tagged along. 

We had monitored the weather forecast for the past fortnight, hoping and praying that the big sun listed for Saturday 11th May wouldn't suddenly disappear. Two days out, the forecast looked fairly certain. We were in for a treat!

I knew it would be a big day, most guidebooks listed it as 12hours, but I'd seen mention of 14. With the fine conditions and long hours of daylight, we set off before 8am, striding past the waking bunkhouse and tents on the campsite with purpose. 

Past the bluebells of the castle grounds, the Japanese bridge over the burn, the Edwardian electrical power station and onto the hill path that climbs up Coire Dubh. Very quickly we were above the tree line and the views just improved with every step. 

The first peak of Hallival loomed large ahead. Three terraces of basalt cliffs making it look insurmountable. As we reached the main ridge of the Cuillin, all the other peaks came into view. And what a view! It took the breath away. Finally I was here. Years and years of looking to the island from the mainland and other islands...yes that's Rum over there. But now I was here, on those peaks. Happy daze!

Faint traces of a path wove its way up the side of the peak, avoiding most difficulties. Through lush patches of grass, with burrows of the Manx Shearwater birds hiding below. Then we popped out on the summit. 

More pictures (including the blip). Next up was to be the highest peak on the island - Askival (812m) and the first Corbett of the day. It had a narrow grassy ridge leading to a rocky tower barring the summit. Let's go! 

Descending Hallival was tricky, and AB#2 took her time. Onto the next ridge and past the feathery remains of an eagle's Manx Shearwater dinner. More burrows, more winding paths and ding ding we reached the trig point. 

Down to the Bealach an Oir with a wild warm wind piling through. Mrs AB and AB#2 chose to bypass the next peak of Trollabhal via the grassy coire, whilst I horsed up the ridge to the trickiest summit of the day, made even more tricky by the blustery wind. From the summit I could see my companions waiting for me in the next bealach - it felt like they were at the foot of a vertical cliff it was so steep. 

We reconvened and refuelled, then began the next ascent up screes and then another improbable ridge to reach the grassy summit of the second Corbett - Ainshval. At the cairn was another walker. Very chatty, he told us it was his penultimate Corbett and he'd started from Inverness that day, catching the 7.30am ferry and heading home same day. 

We carried on, now starting to feel the distance. Thankfully the next section is over bouncy grass with few rocks. Another pull up onto the cairn above the Nameless Corrie and along to the final summit of the day - Sgurr nan Gillean. But there were definitely no young men today - just one old one. 

Feet hanging over the cliff beside the cairn, we ate and reviewed the string of peaks in front of us. Climbed them all! What a day. 

But then we quickly remembered this was only halfway. We still had to descend and get back to Kinloch. Not so easy, especially when this final peak is guarded by some very steep and loose ground, then acres of pathless boggy heather. 

At Dibidil bothy it was time for another break and refuel. A sunburnt walker from Airdrie was in residence, looking exhausted. He had driven to Arisaig the evening before to wild camp with two friends, then caught the 7.30 ferry. After Hallival and Askival, he'd binned it and escaped to Dibidil, but his friends had continued over the rest of the ridge. 

Then it was time to pick up the path back to Kinloch, improving all the way. I reached the shop and bought some Isle of Eigg beers to celebrate. 

10hours, 27km, 1800m ascent. Corbetts 189 + 190.