Bandiere

Oh my word what an incredible first day in Siena!
We were just having some breakfast and commenting on how quiet it is within the apartment despite being in the centre of town when the noise of drums penetrated even the very efficient double glazing. We hung out of the window and were greeted with a huge parade of drummers and large flag bearers….amazing costumes and huge flags depicting a crowned goose. We were gobsmacked and surprised as we had no idea what was happening…cue frantic Google searches and finding out about these ‘Festa Titolare’ (https://www.sienainns.com/en/events-news/the-festivals-of-the-sienese-districts/ ) which we’d unknowingly arrived in time for the main day of the Oca district’s festa. The parades, sights and sounds of this amazing event dominated our day as we wandered around this beautiful medieval terracotta city, admiring the huge piazza where the Palio horse race happens in the summer and the dominating clock tower (extras), the little closes and hidden courtyards, ancient doors and doorknockers, churches and their paintings (and beautiful singing by thee nuns in one of the churches we visited).
We sat in the sun (typical tourists!) enjoying a coffee, wandered past the various shops selling truffles, wine, olives, leather goods, chocolate and jewellery and sampled many of the wares on offer! When we saw people standing outside a deli enjoying platters of bread, fresh meats and cheeses we decided that’s what we fancied for lunch so nipped into a shop to supplement what was already in the fridge at home, and went back to put together quite a spread. Delicious!
We then had a bit of downtime and did some research on what else to see, read our books etc since we’d not had the best sleep last night. Refreshed, we headed out again towards the Duomo, taking in more of the warren of little streets and soaking up the atmosphere of the square I. Front of it, full of dancing and preaching, tourists and locals, some of them wearing the green and red scarves of the Oca district.
We’ll go inside the Duomo tomorrow but made our way to the piazza for our timed ticket to go up the clock tower. I was fine for the first third or so of it but when we came out onto a lookout point I realised that was more than high enough for me and when I saw the very claustrophobic next set of steps to get to the top I decided to stay there and let LE go the rest of the way herself (just as well when I saw her photos from the top!). Still got incredible views, and lovely to be up amongst the rooftops and bell towers, one of which started pealing as I watched.
Once we’d finished at the tower we settled down with an Aperol and a cold beer to soak up the evening atmosphere in the piazza and soon the parades arrived again, linking up with a band and eventually walking all around the piazza in formation so that the entire place seemed filled with noise and waving flags. The procession of costumed players (identical in their very medieval looking padded velvet tunics, little pointed hats, colourful leggings and soft tied shoes) was followed by vast numbers of people - I assume the inhabitants of the neighbourhood - wearing their scarves and singing lustily. So lovely to see all ages involved (and all the crowds loved seeing a little flag bearer with his Dad in all the parades…he’ll be tired tonight!) and such a strong sense of continuing tradition and community. Fabulous!
We decided to walk round to where the parade ended and that’s where I saw this little group of drummer boys relaxing after their big day. We were close to one of the restaurants our hosts had recommended to us, Pizzeria Nonno Mede, which had an amazing view of the town and we were lucky (it’s been a charmed day!) to arrive as the Duomo was bathed in the rich late afternoon light and have a table where we could gaze on it, staying until the darkness fell and the illuminations came on. We had delicious pizzas (LE had the naked one with fresh cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella scattered on top after it came out of the oven….what she’d seen in another place earlier and had fancied. We chatted about families, turning points in careers, our day of exploring and plans for the rest of the week, then came home for a cup of tea and bed,