Day in Palermo

After yesterday’s abandoned attempt to see the No Mafia Memorial, we did it this morning. It’s quite a sobering exhibition and some of the photographs are quite explicit but it was interesting to see and read about such an important part of Sicily’s history. Afterwards, we walked down to the Rinascente department store. We’d read they had a roof terrace and it was close to 32º outside.  All the streets we walked down had a side in the shade - which I imagine is how a lot of the central part of Palermo is designed - so I wasn’t too bothered by the heat.  I think some of the others were. 

There are multiple levels to the roof terrace and the cafe that was open has a very shaded area where we all drank something different. I was the only one to go for a hot drink (coffee) and PY had a cold coffee. M&R are on soft drinks but E had a wine and I think we were all a bit jealous.  

When we’d finished, I went up to the top level and discovered the incredible view of Piazza San Domenico, and the church from which the piazza’s name is taken. We concluded that it would haven way too hot to sit with the view as there was limited shade.  

Then we headed to the department store’s third floor where they already have their Christmas things on display and the most amazing lit-up Christmas town models. It was very strange to be in such heat with all the Christmas decorations, but also rather magical.

Lunch was at Caponata, a restaurant recommended by the guide earlier in the week. I had the Anelletto “n’casciato” - which seemed to be little ring pasta in a meat ragu - although we joked it looked a bit like spaghetti hoops.  It was delicious and, I think, the tastiest meal to date. 

After lunch, there was a split in the group.  Some wanted to head back to the apartment and did some shopping on the way back. PY and I first went to the Teatro Massimo to book tickets for tomorrow morning as we’d agreed we’d like to do that but would have to get up early in case the tours were, again, limited for rehearsals. We got added to a calendar for the 9:20am tour. It’s a pencil in the diary so I hope it works out. 

The we took a half hour walk through, what I think must be, the suburbs of Palermo to the Catacombe dei Cappuccini. The catacombs are long connected tunnels carved into the earth where 2,000 mummified skeletons and bodies are kept. It’s manages to be both fascinating and disturbing at the same time. Many of the skulls have quite pained expressions which makes it quite uncomfortable at times.  On many of the skeletons the clothing is very well preserved. It’s an unusual tourist attraction but not as horrific as the description may sound.

We walked back though Palermo, stopping for mango granita. There was some filming at the Cathedral and, when we got back, Rob managed to find the Netflix show that was being filmed. Before that we walked back down to the waterfront to checkout ‘Fud Bocs’ - the location of tonight’s dinner.

We spent the end of the evening, as we have been doing, on the terrace. The wind was getting stronger but we didn’t experience the ‘weather warning’ gusts that we’d read about. PY went to bed early we put the air-conditioning on for the first time.