Ghost trees of Fanal

When the first explorers came to Madeira, the island was covered by Laurisilva forest - the vegetation that once covered much of southern Europe. Now little is left, confined to a few areas, the largest being here in Madeira - though even here,  only 16% of the original remains and has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site.

1150 metres up in the highlands of north west Madeira, lies the fairytale like Fanal Forest, and it’s here that G brings me today. His walks provide chances to seek out accessible places he feels I will like - and ideally will provide photo-opportunities; and the Fanal Forest does both. Its location means mists often roll in, transforming the already fantastically formed ancient trees into a fairytale fantasy, strange twisted shapes looming from the shadows, suddenly appearing and disappearing as the mist rolls through. The trees are Ocotea Foetens, more commonly known as ‘stinkwood’ - the name adding to their Tolkienesque appearance. 

We arrive in sunshine, ironically willing the mists to roll in from the valley where the clouds hang stubbornly immobile. The trees are gnarled and weathered into amazing shapes, but we’re lacking the one feature that will add the required magic. Wisps teasingly touch the distant trees, but as we move towards them, vanish once again.  Then just as we’re about to leave, the weather changes, and before our eyes, the forest transforms into the enchanted land we’ve sought. It’s mesmerising and hauntingly beautiful.  

The trees share the land with grazing cows, cattle with attitude who seem to enjoy chasing instagram seeking tourists - not us of course! One appears from the mist, a ghostly apparition, joined by its calf to graze under an ancient tree. We keep a safe distance, just watching the moment. 

And so today there is a fantasy forest set of Fanal’s ghostly trees  - and cows. I’ve struggled even more than usual with my main in this one, and I’ve already changed it once!