Bealach Na Ba Gum

Well, where to begin? Maybe with the 06.30 drive? I didn’t plan to leave that early but I had a great night’s sleep and woke naturally early so made the most of it. It was a beautiful quiet drive with mist swirling on the hills but plenty of blue sky about. I had a good feeling about the day.  I crossed over the country on the North Coast 500 Route which was stunning but wouldn’t really interest me to cycle it. 

My day’s outing continued on the route but by bicycle. It was a perfect temperature so I loaded up my pockets with warm add-ons for the descent and plenty of food and warmed up my legs on the lower slopes of Bealach Na Ba. It’s a crazy mountain pass that ascends an ever steepening single track road. 

Two large goats, I thought, sauntered across the road a few yards in front of me. No… deer! Eerie - and with very little traffic, this was rather special. Not so far away the same happened again but these were crossing downhill - maybe seven of them.

It’s my kind of hill to go up. It’s long at about 9km but a great steady gradient. The hairpins at the top were getting busy now but everyone was super kind and patient and I had claps, my photo taken and a ‘you must be mental’ to add to the experience.

I’d not long reached the top, togged up and started the descent when a heavy downpour was thrown at me from Skye. That was a bit earlier in the day than predicted but came at a good time as I’d be stripping off any damp gear soon. 

I had un unexpected skid at the abrupt end and sharp, steep, wet corner at the bottom (we had a few words at the sight of my back wheel on my left side!). But I safely rounded into Applecross with blue sky. It was hard to tell what was going to happen with the rain because black was still off to one side but in the end, that was my only dousing which was much less than I’d expected. 

Now, this is an awesome, tiny road that takes the edge of the peninsula for the next 20 miles. But, it was ridiculously busy. I think I need to sell the copyright to our van design to the Scottish government, insisting that only bikes, e-bikes or access vehicles can take the road! I’ve since heard that Applecross residents would like to be removed from the NC500. I’m not surprised!

The continuous ups and downs took their toll on my legs but I kept feeding them up and made it to the road back. I think somewhere before the turning I avoided an adder basking on the tarmac. You can tell my mindset because it didn’t register what it was straight away and I didn’t turn back for a photo but it was not huge, black grey and silvery with a diamond pattern. Grrrr! Ten miles to go, still with an uphill and into the wind but it was dry, warm and I knew I was going to make it.

The cafe at the finish was heavenly and I devoured a venison burger (I know, the one on the hill!) and a coffee before I knew it.

I’ve now pottered down to Skye and have enjoyed a beautiful sunset and a bit more food, planning and stretching. Time to crash!