From Punakaiki to Arthur’s Pass

Sadly, Cape Foulwind is just an overnight stop, so bright and early we set off down the west coast which continues to offer breathtaking views at an every turn.

First official stop is Punakaiki and its famous ‘Pancake Rocks’. Strangely, I’ve never actually seen an image of this famous landmark, and in my head I’ve pictured it as spreading shelves of flattened rock formations - probably crawling with tourists (and we’re not tourists, of course!). But the name refers to stacks of pancakes, layer upon layer of limestone formations that have been sculpted into a variety of forms. And viewing is from a wonderfully constructed loop path with regular viewing points, allowing these natural monuments to shine in all their glory. Vegetation is lush, and many of the pancake stacks sport their own forest toppings. It’s so much more than I had hoped for. 

From here, we continue south towards Greymouth, turning inland towards Arthur’s Pass. We decided at the planning stage that the Trans Alpine train was not for us, but wanted a small taste of the journey in visiting possibly its most iconic station. We take the scenic route via Lake Brunner, having lunch - an unusual indulgence - at the wonderfully named and very peaceful Moana, where we sit in the old station master’s garden overlooking the station. 

Onwards and upwards, we travel along the impressive mountain route that connects Christchurch to the west coast, the scenery becoming more and more majestic. At Arthur’s Pass we park at the station, asking when the transalpine will arrive. ‘Should be in the next ten minutes,’ we’re told, ‘but she may be delayed for an hour or so.  She tends to go slowly in heat like this.’ And yes, it is hot; we certainly weren’t expecting mid to high twenties at this stage of our journey. 

I’m eager to photograph a Kea, the alpine parrots once seen as pests but now endangered with a population of less that 5000 - largely thanks to a century-long culling programme where bounties were rewarded for every kea killed. Apparently, the only certain place to spot them here is on the cafe terrace where they fly in to scavenge visitors’ food. There are instructions everywhere not to feed the kea, but the kea just ignore them! Anyway, this gives limited opportunities for decent shots, and the light is awful, but hopefully there will be chances further on. 

We climb up to ‘The Devil’s Punchbowl’, a simple walk involving far more steps than I would like. The views of the 131 metre waterfall are beautiful- the falls far more delicate and misty than their name suggests - and the alpine forest vegetation is a joy to walk through.

The last stage of our journey - or so we think - is the final 13 km drive to reach tonight’s accommodation. However, unlike everywhere else we’ve stayed, this falls far short of our expectations. I know the owner won’t be there - she messaged me to say so - but what I don’t expect is the chaos and disorganisation that we find. The views are absolutely stunning, but the piles of dishes draining by the sink, the half loaf left on the work surface, the total disorder if the fridge, and the general feeling of lack of cleanliness means we feel we just can’t stay. I frantically try to find alternative accommodation, but this means a 90 minute drive back to the coast and, of course, additional expense. 

We strike lucky, find a ‘cottage’ at the rather dubiously named ‘Goldmine Suites’ - actually really lovely - and gratefully tuck into the cheese and wine we’ve stashed away for tonight’s snack. I’m so glad we’ve found an alternative, but disappointed that my track record with accommodation standards has been broken! 


Today’s main is a view across the Pancake Rocks, with another in extras; plus another earlier view across this fabulous coast - and, of course, a cheeky kea!