Cape Palliser and The Pinnacles

This morning we’re sad to leave our ‘Tiny House’ and our host Sarah - it’s been a blissful oasis. But it’s time to embark on the our final stage of our journey through North Island. 

Our final port of call is Wellington - but rather than taking the direct route along SH1 which would take us just an hour, we’re deviating to Cape Palliser thus quadrupling our journey time. We’re keen to see this section of the coast described as ‘rugged, remote and sparsely populated’ - as well as being strikingly beautiful and boasting a large colony of fur seals. 

The journey across the Remutaka Range is spectacular enough, the road twisting along steep inclines to the summit, marked by a memorial to 60,000 WW1 soldiers who marched from their training camps to the Hutt valley and on to the horrors of a distant war. We then descend into fertile plains before reaching the coast road to the cape, driving  along a narrow road cut along the crumbling cliffs, at times over a dirt track caused by the ‘active slips’ of heavy rains; small wonder the road signs urge ‘Extreme Caution’! 

And then we turn the corner to see the most spectacular coastal views of rocky shore lines edged in palest turquoise turning to deep aquamarine, glints of bleached driftwood flashing from the pale grey sand. The weather is glorious, allowing nature’s colours to truly shine. 

Further along, we come to the little fishing port of Ngawi which boasts the bizarre claim of having more tractors per head of population than anywhere else in the world; used to haul their fishing boats in and out of the often wild waves of the Cook Strait, and today we see them standing in rusting ranks along the road side. 

Onwards we go, turning again towards Cape Palliser itself, now on a gravel road. The lighthouse stands above us on the cliff in splendid red and white. There are steps - 250 of them - to reach the lighthouse, but we decide against attempting this. As it is, we’re pushing things today. Instead, we spend our time along the rocky shore watching the most adorable colony of fur seals. We’re relatively close just on the road, but I clamber over to the shoreline - still keeping a safe distance of course. They’re curious but seem totally unconcerned by my presence, and I just sit down on a rock to watch and photograph. The pups are quite mature here, interacting querulously like playground children,  yelping loudly. Adults bask in the rocks, striking poses as only seals can. 

I could stay watching them for hours, but it’s time to move. We make our way back along the beach, me stopping regularly to photograph this stunning landscape. There are flowers everywhere, carpets of colour bordering the sand, and taller pink succulents blooming on the rocks. 

Eventually, we drag ourselves away, and head for The Putangirua Pinnacles, a spectacular landscape used for the Dimholt Road in the Lord of the Rings where Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli ride to meet the Army of the Dead. We’re keen to do this walk, but have read that it takes 90 minutes just to reach the pinnacles from the car park, and have neither the time or fitness (in my case) for this. However, when the trail notice reads a 90 minute return, I feel it’s worth a shot. To be honest, it really is a case of pushing myself beyond what I feel I’m capable of right now, but it’s our only chance …

It’s hot, very hot, and the ‘path’ is basically the bolder-strewn river bed - largely dry, but several stream crossings are required via improvised stepping stones. The final stretch is uphill, but by now we can see these surreal natural sculptures, the result of erosion of sedimentary rock over the last 120,000 years. Towering above us, they are both weird and magnificent in their own right, their sense of mystery and otherworldliness clearly well-suited to their role as a Path of the Dead. 

We return to the car and finally make our way to Wellington, the last hour of our journey through heavy traffic, such a contrast to the peace we’ve experienced today. Eventually we reach our Airbnb for the next two nights, nesting above the city on the slopes of Mount Victoria. We have our own large deck to sit out and enjoy a superb takeout meal - our first time using Uber eats; we’re far too tired to even think of going out! 

In terms of photography, it’s been a pretty intensive day, so choosing a main is really difficult. In the end, I’ve gone with the Pinnacles, even though I don’t think it’s my best photo of the day; I’m tempted by the seals and the coastal shots, but they’ve had their day in the spotlight before, and after all, I’m never going to see this landscape again. There are also self explanatory extras! 

Health wise, I’m coping well - though inevitably a rest day would be beneficial; I think our first few days in South Island will see a slight slowing of the pace!