Chappies

Awake before dawn it was cold and the wind was blowing a right old gale. The Airbnb host has kindly fixed up his bike for me to use to cycle Chapman’s Peak Drive, the stunning coastal route on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula. It certainly promised an interesting windy morning.

The uphill cycle was tough in places where the wind streamed and gusted over the mountainside and created a fierce headwind. The scenery remained exhilarating throughout, especially on the descent down Chapman’s Peak Drive alongside sheer rock walls into the next coastal settlement of Nordhoek. There I enjoyed the long wild beach, snacked and refuelled before returning back up over the pass. The only questionable thing about Nordhoek is the sign warning beachgoers about ‘criminal elements’ in the dunes.

The return remained tiring and windy but the views into Hout Bay were simply splendid. I clocked up a satisfying 39 kilometres per hour speed as I hit the tarmac into town. As it’s been a while since I’ve cycled, tomorrow might be a little sore in the legs and bottom.

In the afternoon. I headed towards the northern suburbs of Cape Town. The bus ride from Hout Bay into the city centre remains jaw-droppingly beautiful. I imagine the Dutch were primarily looking for water and shelter when they founded a city on the Cape but the aesthetics are a nice addition into the bargain.

I made a pit stop for some spicy Thai curry and spring rolls, washed down with an iced tea then continued on to Bloubergstrand beach for a long walk. The views back to Table Mountain in the distance are striking, with kite surfers skilfully weaving in the foreground. The wind was quite ferocious but I trudged on and ate ice cream from a van at sunset several kilometres further north.

I had to catch an Uber taxi back. Without exception every Uber driver I’ve encountered in Cape Town has been Zimbabwean. Once they get warmed up and realise I have a link with neighbouring Mozambique, they give their thoughts on the well-publicised and politically charged xenophobia in South Africa. Particularly in Johannesburg this has led to some vicious reprisals against Zimbabweans, Malawians and Mozambicans simply trying to provide for themselves and their families. It sounds like it’s wise for them to keep a low profile when they’re moving between work and home and these conversations have always provided good insights.