Disconnected

This surfer became disconnected from the wave at a crucial time. He was OK but another local surfer whom I know quite well has not been so lucky. In yesterdays large swell he had a wave close out on top of him as he tried to get inside the tube and as he rolled over his surfboard hit him in the head (fins first). He received a bad cut (needed hospital treatment and many stitches). Needless to day he was a spectator with me today.